tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25319236354191206312024-02-19T13:10:02.447+11:00Clearly HelenaPortfolio; DIY &Notes - a crafted journeyUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger139125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-36054055713724031672024-01-20T17:13:00.131+11:002024-01-20T17:44:06.941+11:00Crochet Stitch - Waistcoat Stitch, How to<div class="sgnarrator">I used to call the Waistcoat Stitch the Knit Single Crochet (ksc) but Knit Single Crochet Stitch is properly known as the Waistcoat Stitch.<br /><br />
Oops! Sorry – I didn’t know that when I thought I “invented” it!!! 😂😂😂</div>
<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUNFBuLkEqE_2Sq-tE603x-0crXKF3NpHrO7KSLpdm1igsUv5W5GPyF-GGCVJt6aI1iws87AN6nueU7o4nH1ZFkV4DdOxVjsbwFenWiMTbTKLWYJMfZlXP1xtyZ5nVMcxo0eq_F6O77gOpZXzZCtDeJzooi88_36C96i4YsemvZkK5Nw_5cYIWV-mG29QP/s1010/knit-single-crochet-stitch-000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1010" data-original-width="1010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUNFBuLkEqE_2Sq-tE603x-0crXKF3NpHrO7KSLpdm1igsUv5W5GPyF-GGCVJt6aI1iws87AN6nueU7o4nH1ZFkV4DdOxVjsbwFenWiMTbTKLWYJMfZlXP1xtyZ5nVMcxo0eq_F6O77gOpZXzZCtDeJzooi88_36C96i4YsemvZkK5Nw_5cYIWV-mG29QP/s600/knit-single-crochet-stitch-000.jpg" width="600" /></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Waistcoat Stitch aka Knit SC Stitch</figcaption></figure>
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<p>Note: This stitch is best suited for working in the rounds. Hence it is ideal for tapestry crochet bags and amigurumi projects.</p>
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<p>I called this stitch the “ksc stitch” (knit single crochet stitch). AKA vsc because we work the sc into the “v” of the stitch below. I came upon it in experimentations. I call it “Knit single crochet” (or ksc for short) because it looks like a stockinnette knit stitch, doesn’t it?</p>
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<p>For me, this is the ideal stitch for use in crochet amigurumi doorstops and for tapestry crochet bags. The Waistcoat stitch produces a very strong fabric (almost like woven canvas) and is so dense that it is prevents weighted amigurumi small stuffing from falling out.</p>
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<h4>Common Crochet Stitch used in Amigurumi dolls</h4>
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On asking Google and Pinterest and even from amigurumi patterns, I can see that the most commonly used crochet stitch is the standard sc (single crochet). However I found that no matter how tightly I crocheted, the resultant holes (spaces between stitches) were too large for my liking.
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In this first amigurumi project, I was making an amigurumi doorstop. I was using glass beads for the required weight. The beads kept seeping out, bit by bit, through the holes. So this first creation was later hacked and cut up to rescue the precious heavy beads! (Good stuffing materials are expensive!)<br><br>
Here is a close up of the crocheted fabric using single crochet stitch (sc). See how large the holes are. (You can even see the orange stuffing of recycled materials within.)
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Not only can small pellets/beads fall out, but it is a bit unsightly (to me) to be able to see the stuffing especially as most stuffing is white in colour. That really shows up if you are using dark yarn for your amigurumi crochet.
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So I went searching for a better stitch. One that would produce a strong and dense fabric.
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<h4>Common Crochet Stitch used in Tapestry Crochet and Wayuu Bags</h4>
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In the meantime, I was also trying out tapestry crochet. The Wayuu bags are a good example of tapestry crochet. They looked very enticing to me so I decided to do some research.
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Some crocheters use the standard sc stitch in tapestry crochet and in their wayuu bags. However I find that that produces a fabric that is too ‘holey’ and not quite strong enough to ensure durability in the face of possible rough, daily usage.
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If I was going to make these kinds of bags, I wanted a resultant fabric that felt and was in fact, very strong to ensure that the bags would be sturdy and long-lasting.
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There are lots of videos on Wayuu bags and on tapestry crochet on youtube. Most crocheters seem to use a stitch which they call “modified single crochet” in the making of Wayuu type bags. As I said above, if you look around, there is more than one version of “modified single crochet” around. The video below is an example of the most popular type of ‘modified sc’ used in wayuu bags.
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This video, by All Tapestry Crochet, is particularly clear and instructive. As she says, she is using “modified single crochet”.</div>
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<p>This version of “modified sc” seems to be the most commonly used sc stitch for tapestry bags and for Wayuu bags in particular. It’s main advantage is that it produces stitches that are stacked on top of each other (ideal of creating “pictures” in your crochet with minimal distortion or slanting stitches).
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It also produces a horizontal ridge in your crocheted fabric. This can be very useful and decorative when used effectively.
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I tried out this modified sc and while I like it, it does not produce as strong a fabric as does my ksc stitch (knit single crochet stitch).
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<p class="text-secondary"><u>Note</u>: For a long while, I thought that there was just <u>one</u> single crochet (sc). Then recently I paid more attention to a stitch called “Modified single crochet”. But shortly after that, I found that there was no one definitive type of ‘modified sc’. In fact, there are various ‘modified single crochet’ stitches so that the name by and of itself is not very helpful nor definitive.</p>
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<h3>The Waistcoat Stitch</h3>
<p>Once again, I apologize for not being able to make a how-to video for you. I just don’t know how even though I have tried and tried. I only produce shockers.
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The advantages of waistcoat stitch:</p>
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<li>very very strong and dense fabric (perfect for bags and amigurumi stuffed creations)</li>
<li>stitches stack up vertically (which is important when crocheting 'images')</li>
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<p>The waistcoat stitch is a very easy variation of the single crochet stitch.
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Instead of putting the hook through the top 2 loops, insert the hook into the “v” of the previous row. Then do as you would a normal sc: yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on hook.</p>
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<p><u>Tip</u>: if you are doing tapestry crochet and are using multiple colours, you don’t need to float the unused yarn behind. In fact, you don’t want to do that. Rather, catch the strands of unused yarn as you work.
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<p>Here are a couple of WIP (work in progress) photos. They illustrate the use of waistcoat crochet stitch. The waistcoat stitch is currently my favourite crochet stitch for amigurumi projects for its tough sturdiness, its ideal suitability for creating un-skewed images, and for its densely packed stitches.</p>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-19978482634884694802024-01-15T23:04:00.003+11:002024-01-15T23:04:27.998+11:00Drawstring Tapestry Crochet Bag - Muted Hues of Myth & Fauna<p>As with the <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2024/01/tapestry-crochet-bag-cat-and-fishes.html">Cat & Fishes tapestry crochet bag</a>, this Drawstring Tapestry Crochet Bag is also a one-time, one of a kind design. A large bag suitable for daily use, for packing some gear for a weekend away, or for the hopeful shopping trips.
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<figcaption class="figcaption text-center">DRAWSTRING TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG – MYTH & FAUNA (CH0418 – SOLD)</figcaption>
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<p>This drawstring tapestry crochet bag is worked like the traditional Wayuu bags, but in a firmer, stronger crochet stitch for extra durability. It features the ever popular retro colours. The all round patterned designs are individually unique – ranging from little quirky animals to mystical Kokopelli.</p>
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<p></p>
<hr />
<h3>Specifications & Features</h3>
<ul>
<li>base diamater: approx. 24.5cm / 9.6in</li>
<li>height: 36cm / 14.2in</li>
<li>very strong and sturdy large holdall bag</li>
<li>can be worn over shoulder or across body</li>
<li>bag strap with adjustable length</li>
<li>classy, secure metal grommets for drawstring</li>
<li>hand-crocheted matching drawstring with hand beaded, semi-precious stopper bead</li>
<li>fully lined with internal pockets</li>
<li>magnetic button on pocket</li>
<li>strong hardware for strap buckle</li>
<li>reinforced round mandala crocheted base</li>
</ul>
<p></p>
<hr />
<h3>Core Materials</h3>
<ul>
<li>strong acrylic yarn</li>
<li>Czech beads, cat's eyes gemstone beads, Delica and Japanese seed beads</li>
<li>metal buckle</li>
<li>metal grommets & eyelets</li>
<li>strong lining</li>
</ul>
<p></p>
<p><small>status: g755 ML0 <s>et</s> {}<span class="invisible">(gifted to Cindy; Christmas 2018)</span></small></p>
<p></p>
<hr />
<h3>Techniques</h3>
<ul>
<li>Body: tapestry crochet with knit single-crochet (aka waistcoat stitch) as the main stitch</li>
<li>Base: overlay crochet adapted from “<a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/398387961/spanish-mandala-overlay-crochet-pattern" rel="ext noopener" target="_blank">Spanish Mandala</a>” design byTatsiana Kupryianchyk from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/LillaBjornCrochet?ref=l2-shop-info-name" rel="ext noopener" target="_blank">LillaBjornCrochet</a></li>
<li>Shoulder strap: using strong, non-stretchy strap-sc stitch (aka Thermal Stitch)</li>
<li>Drawstring Cord: Duo Sided Crochet Cord</li>
<li>Beaded Bead (drawstring stopper): from <a href="https://youtu.be/f8fNdAQZ00E" rel="ext noopener" target="_blank">Sidonia's Beaded Bead tutorial</a> on youTube</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<p>I have included grommets for the drawstring to offer strong, better looking, and easier opening and closing. The drawstring cord is hand crocheted in strong cording method. The stop bead on the drawstring is a hand beaded large bead made from Czech beads, cat’s eyes semi-precious gemstones, and Japanese seed beads.</p>
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<p></p>
<p>This bag can be worn over the shoulder or across body. Bag strap has a metal buckle with metal eyelets, making it conveniently adjustable in length. The strap itself sports round, charming rivets.</p>
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<p></p>
<p>Bag is fully lined and comes with an inner pocket and a magnetic closure.</p>
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<p></p>
<p>Even the base of the bag is an attraction in itself - worked in overlay crochet to produce a colourful, reinforced mandala. ( <a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/398387961/spanish-mandala-overlay-crochet-pattern" rel="ext noopener" target="_blank">Spanish Mandala design</a> from LillaBjornCrochet pattern).</p>
<p></p>
<p>The colours are muted, retro with a gentle touch of ethnicity.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Bag has been protected with a water-shield treatment, making the surface water and stain repellant.</p>
<p></p>
<hr />
<h3>Sources of Inspiration & WIP Notes</h3>
<h4>Graph Pattern for Drawstring Tapestry Crochet Bag</h4>
<p></p>
<p>I graphed this over 160×70 (stitches x rows). I was using yarn suitable for 4mm knitting needles. Crocheted with 2.5mm hook.
Note: The 160stitches is determined firstly by the size of the circular base (number of stitches along ending circumference). So crochet base first, then graph pattern, then crochet body.</p>
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<p></p>
<p>Credit for the components that made up the design: (all obtained from Pinterest):</p>
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<li>Doggie: <a href="https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651132254/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651132254/</a></li>
<li>Bunny: <a href="https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651132251/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651132251/</a></li>
<li>Cat: <a href="https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131735/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131735/</a></li>
<li>Panda: <a href="https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131811/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131811/</a></li>
<li>Kokopelli: <a href="https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131650/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131650/</a></li>
<li>Row of Figures: <br><a href="https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131504/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131504/</a></li>
</ul>
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<p></p>
<hr>
<p>And for a completeness, I will just leave some WIP photos here. I often find them very useful over time.</p>
<h3>Rivets for Bag Strap</h3>
<p>In this instance, the rivets are more for show than for riveting strength. The strap is invisibly and strongly sewn onto bag after the rivets.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Note that washers are used on both the right and wrong sides of the strap. The washers will prevent any possibility of the rivets falling thorough the crocheted fabric.</p>
<p></p>
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<p></p>
<hr>
<h3>Making the Drawstring Cord</h3>
<p>Note that it is not necessary to have the yarn coming out of the grommet hole. However it is advisable to have the stop bead larger than the grommet hole. The metal bead shown here is only used as a core bead, which I will bead over later.</p>
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<p></p>
<hr>
<h3>BagFeet & Bag Lining</h3>
<p>While bag feet hardware are optional, if you have them, they should be done before the lining. (Don’t forget the stiffener for the base of the bag.)</p>
<p></p>
<p><b><u>Important:</u></b> The photo shows the pocket a bit lower than the final result. I made a mistake in the photo. The pocket should be a bit higher up. Normally about <b>6-7cm</b> from opening or in this instance, from the drawstring line.
</p>
<p></p>
<hr>
<p></p>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-67235172921895177472024-01-15T16:05:00.107+11:002024-01-15T16:41:39.944+11:00Ladder Stitch, Beading How To<p>The Ladder Stitch is generally used as a foundation (start) stitch for Brick Stitch and Herringbone stitch. This stitch can be done with either one (traditional way) or 2-needle approach.<br /><br />
This image will serve as reminder for those who already know how to weave the Ladder Stitch.
</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhayrGktrDdasLRX1ES-qubykDb1Ax-3psDsxFfApxI3hG8FszlAVt-_niS-5-8kzG37IDIiWYFWs-irvPUrvumyAp7Ybef3XiOEuoJcMna9OwudC3ZcMPa_u2sPyyKPzUZwL7YNcBjNJjOA_W54Hd2EpWn88qYu7s41QOYEpWma7b4jjz8wYCiasqQpU/s615/ladder-stitch001.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="264" data-original-width="615" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhayrGktrDdasLRX1ES-qubykDb1Ax-3psDsxFfApxI3hG8FszlAVt-_niS-5-8kzG37IDIiWYFWs-irvPUrvumyAp7Ybef3XiOEuoJcMna9OwudC3ZcMPa_u2sPyyKPzUZwL7YNcBjNJjOA_W54Hd2EpWn88qYu7s41QOYEpWma7b4jjz8wYCiasqQpU/s400/ladder-stitch001.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face="Montserrat, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #bbbbbb; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 1px; text-transform: uppercase;">BEADING: LADDER STITCH</span><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #bbbbbb; font-family: Montserrat, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 1px; text-transform: uppercase;" /><span face="Montserrat, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #bbbbbb; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 1px; text-transform: uppercase;">IMAGE SOURCE: HANDMADE-JEWELRY-CLUB.COM</span></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p></p>
<a name='more'></a>
<h4>Ladder Stitch: How To</h4>
<em>Recommended</em>: This first YouTube video, by Fire Mountain Gems, is very clear, fast. They also have easy, <a href="http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_howtos/beading_projects.asp?docid=935j" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">illustrated tutorial on the ladder stitch</a>.
<p></p>
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NeW97Sgk3dY?si=gwZkKRZkrZizcXYi" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe>
<p></p>
<hr />
<p>These next videos are also worth watching if you want a full refresher or have never done a Ladder Stitch. </p>
<h4>DIY Easy Beading Stitches - The Ladder Stitch (by EvaEvaEva923)</h4>
Basic tutorial on ladder stitch, using 1 needle.
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3fBcA75Vw0I" title="DIY Easy Beading Stitches - The Ladder Stitch.wmv" width="640"></iframe>
<p></p>
<hr />
<h4>How to create a Ladder Stitch – Beading (from JewelrySupply.com)</h4>
In this video, 3 beads are used together for the depth of the ladder stitch.
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1DZCqN5peOM" title="How to create a Ladder Stitch - Beading" width="480"></iframe>
<p></p>
<hr />
<h4>Ladder Stitch Beadweaving Instructions (by Potomac Bead Company)</h4>
Good tip. Shows how to use a 2-needle approach as well as how to quicken the ladder stitch weaving (by picking up more than one stitch, a side, at a time)
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/x6Vvrd4VXqc" title="Ladder Stitch Beadweaving Instructions" width="640"></iframe>
<p></p>
<hr />
<h3>Using the Ladder Stitch as More than a Foundation Row</h3>
<p>This ladder beaded stitch can also be more than just a foundation beaded row.
<br /><br />
The thing to remember about making a swatch of ladder stitch is that you use the previous row as anchor for the current one (as shown in images below).
<br /><br />
</p>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-25463186361804694162021-01-07T00:16:00.010+11:002024-01-16T00:51:41.514+11:00Glowing Miracle-Bead Crochet Bag - Beaded Crochet<p>This Drawstring Tapestry Crochet Bag is also a one-time, one of a kind design. This bag is crocheted with the super-intriguing Miracle Beads, aka Magic Beads. The 'magic' of these beads is that they will glow under natural light. So at the most unexpected, delightful occasion, your bag will seem to burst forth with an inner glow. Furthermore, they have the mesmerising illusion of a bead within a bead. This 'magic' has to be seen to fully appreciated.</p>
<figure>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsFsnWUNSYKx0oTJXGbTCu72JIBJ-qvJmsnlTjmmfVPm1gbM2mnOFrtzP0X_Yt7rM2b8uDEadNWbSp3b-nYBlab8R7mgn_q576S4EhjuZbtjnkYSBoTjo4OGQjh8RnAWEF56Nh4WFhJxz3f4yVg-Bww4WkEErDY6UNPtZXupPXufpoj8fRsPBm75eVzqRL/s1600/miracle%20beads%20crochet%20bag%20000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsFsnWUNSYKx0oTJXGbTCu72JIBJ-qvJmsnlTjmmfVPm1gbM2mnOFrtzP0X_Yt7rM2b8uDEadNWbSp3b-nYBlab8R7mgn_q576S4EhjuZbtjnkYSBoTjo4OGQjh8RnAWEF56Nh4WFhJxz3f4yVg-Bww4WkEErDY6UNPtZXupPXufpoj8fRsPBm75eVzqRL/s600/miracle%20beads%20crochet%20bag%20000.jpg" width="600" /></a>
<figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Glowing Miracle-Bead Crochet Bag (CH0419)</figcaption>
</figure>
<p></p><a name='more'></a>
<p>This drawstring tapestry crochet bag is worked like the traditional Wayuu bags, but in a firmer, stronger crochet stitch for extra durability.</p>
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<p></p><hr />
<h3>Specifications & Features</h3>
• base diamater: approx. 23 cm / 9 in<br />
• height: 24.5 cm / 9.6 in<br />
• very strong and sturdy bag<br />
• can be worn over shoulder or across body<br />
• bag strap with adjustable length<br />
• classy, secure metal grommets for drawstring<br />
• hand-crocheted matching drawstring with hand beaded stopper bead<br />
• fully lined with internal pockets<br />
• strong hardware for strap buckle<br />
• reinforced round mandala crocheted base<br />
<p></p>
<p></p>
<h3>Core Materials</h3>
• strong acrylic yarn<br />
• galvanised silver drops, cut crystal beads, luminous clear seed beads, faceted rondelle beads, miracle beads<br />
• metal buckle<br />
• metal grommets, rivets, & eyelets<br />
• strong lining<br />
<p></p>
<small style="color: #999999;">status: g510 NML n/l</small>
<p></p><hr />
<h3>Techniques</h3>
<ul>
<li>Body: tapestry crochet with knit single-crochet (aka waistcoat stitch) as the main stitch</li>
<li>Base: overlay crochet adapted from “<a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/229441481/pattern-overlay-crochet-mandala?ref=shop_home_active_" rel="ext" target="_blank">Dandelion Mandala</a>” design byTatsiana Kupryianchyk from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/LillaBjornCrochet?ref=l2-shop-info-name" rel="ext" target="_blank">LillaBjornCrochet</a></li>
<li>Shoulder strap: using strong, non-stretchy strap-sc stitch (aka Thermal Stitch)</li>
<li>Drawstring Cord: Duo Sided Crochet Cord</li>
<li>Beaded Bead (drawstring stopper): from <a href="https://youtu.be/f8fNdAQZ00E" rel="ext" target="_blank">Sidonia's Beaded Bead tutorial</a> on youTube</li>
</ul>
<p></p><hr>
<h3>The Grommets!</h3>
<p>I have included grommets for the drawstring. The grommets allow for easier opening and closing as the drawstring passes easily through the metal grommets. Not only do the grommets add to its good looks, but it also makes for a stronger bag. The drawstring is hand crocheted in strong cording method.</p>
<p></p>
<p>This bag can be worn over the shoulder or across body. Bag strap has a metal buckle which allows it’s length to be conveniently adjusted.</p>
<p></p>
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<p></p>
<p></p><hr>
<h3>The Stop Beads</h3>
<p>The stop beads on the drawstring are hand beaded large beads made from galvanised silver drops, cut crystal beads, luminous clear seed beads, faceted rondelle beads, and 6mm miracle beads.</p>
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<h3>Lining</h3>
<p>Bag is fully lined and comes with an 2 inner pocket – suitable for phones and the usual and necessary miscellaneous objects.</p>
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<h3>Base of Bag</h3>
<p>Even the base of the bag is an attraction in itself – worked in overlay crochet to produce a colourful, reinforced mandala. (Dandelion Mandala design, a LillaBjornCrochet pattern).</p>
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<p>The colours of yarn and beads used here are boldly and happily bright, colourful, and filled with va-va-voom life!! Suitable for daily wear, party wear, travel, and for fun journeys.</p>
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<h3>WIP Notes and Photos</h3>
<p>And for completeness, I will just leave some WIP photos here. I often find them very useful over time.</p>
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<p>For fuller detailed, how-to steps, please refer to How to Make Tapestry Crochet Bags.</p>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-84478868120864630092019-04-25T16:10:00.071+10:002024-01-20T16:33:26.995+11:00Invisible Join - Crochet Needle Join - How ToThe Invisible Join aka Needle Join (NJ) is a most useful and, in my opinion, a beautiful way to end a row of crochet stitches. This is used in circular work (e.g. making crochet mandalas, overlay crochet) ... whenever you have to end one colour at the end of a circular row and switch to another colour.
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I prefer the name IJ (Invisible Join) because you don't always need to use a needle to effect this join. And it does produce an invisible joining stitch. Basically it invisibly joins your ending stitch to your starting stitch in circular work.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitJSYPb_8vPcJEn1RCkVnVWppTldti6ugL6Vi04AP1f0mWaMjccD-5mTxoSBzzNt_6v5rkAwoTlzxo_hxduNdVJqdxjrR71L31zG0BzErfZK7PFwE6UCv8Ifp4f0F3aywqYDdnQp1AhCVDWLo_g2xIR1pTWNxK6hfppBHfrLiJYZrKypqs4wTI30axgaLU/s1000/invisible-join-how-to_1847.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitJSYPb_8vPcJEn1RCkVnVWppTldti6ugL6Vi04AP1f0mWaMjccD-5mTxoSBzzNt_6v5rkAwoTlzxo_hxduNdVJqdxjrR71L31zG0BzErfZK7PFwE6UCv8Ifp4f0F3aywqYDdnQp1AhCVDWLo_g2xIR1pTWNxK6hfppBHfrLiJYZrKypqs4wTI30axgaLU/s400/invisible-join-how-to_1847.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">How to crochet the Invisible Join/Needle Join</figcaption></figure>
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Let's do it!
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You have reached the stage where you need to end one colour and begin another on the next row.
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Cut off the yarn. Does not have to be very long. About 2 inches will do. Then pull the loop on the hook all the way till the end comes through.
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<b>Skip</b> the row’s first/start stitch. Insert hook through both loops of the 2nd/next stitch. Catch yarn and pull through.
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Hook through the FL (front loop) of your end/last stitch. Catch the yarn and pull through. You have now formed an Invisible Join.
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You can just catch and secure down the loose yarn end on your next row. However I like one last step for a better and more secure finish.
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Flip your work to the wrong side (WS). In the first photo below I have artificially elongated the stitch you just made before so you can more easily see it. You will notice that your starting/first stitch of the row is kind of floating unattached. It really doesn’t matter – unless you are finicky like me.
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Tighten the stitch you just formed before so that it looks just like a normal stitch. Insert your hook through the back loop of the start stitch. Catch the yarn and pull through. Now everything is secure. Just catch the loose yarn as you work the next row. That will eliminate the unwanted task of having to weave in loose ends at the end of your project.
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Finished!<br>
<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitJSYPb_8vPcJEn1RCkVnVWppTldti6ugL6Vi04AP1f0mWaMjccD-5mTxoSBzzNt_6v5rkAwoTlzxo_hxduNdVJqdxjrR71L31zG0BzErfZK7PFwE6UCv8Ifp4f0F3aywqYDdnQp1AhCVDWLo_g2xIR1pTWNxK6hfppBHfrLiJYZrKypqs4wTI30axgaLU/s1000/invisible-join-how-to_1847.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitJSYPb_8vPcJEn1RCkVnVWppTldti6ugL6Vi04AP1f0mWaMjccD-5mTxoSBzzNt_6v5rkAwoTlzxo_hxduNdVJqdxjrR71L31zG0BzErfZK7PFwE6UCv8Ifp4f0F3aywqYDdnQp1AhCVDWLo_g2xIR1pTWNxK6hfppBHfrLiJYZrKypqs4wTI30axgaLU/s600/invisible-join-how-to_1847.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Ans: The stich where the hook is pointing at.</figcaption></figure>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-59115889238759909352018-05-19T14:04:00.081+10:002024-01-21T14:41:45.370+11:00Meditation Capelet; overlay crochet Meditation Capelet for early morning meditations! Mornings are getting colder. It is harder and harder to rise above the doona and sit up for nippy morning meditations. This capelet was designed to keep me warm at those moments.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWk04TkaTZQSFWGeRRpAZR54Zr_YUZuxsW4vlj2eRoQsd3fYCCYYP4s22A0ChXxy4bGVJOh_KQ0Ibo5m43_M6ir8x90BU-2XhrUsxh5e_TCVTrqqwHZ4hc842usELpdWWsEX6xTRWSIeXbfLyT3UYwDHktfe1BY5WZkiR8xjJMNk-6zRIbNp2Q2TDFZy_-/s1000/meditation%20capelet%20CH0497-001.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="600" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWk04TkaTZQSFWGeRRpAZR54Zr_YUZuxsW4vlj2eRoQsd3fYCCYYP4s22A0ChXxy4bGVJOh_KQ0Ibo5m43_M6ir8x90BU-2XhrUsxh5e_TCVTrqqwHZ4hc842usELpdWWsEX6xTRWSIeXbfLyT3UYwDHktfe1BY5WZkiR8xjJMNk-6zRIbNp2Q2TDFZy_-/s600/meditation%20capelet%20CH0497-001.jpg"/><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Meditation Capelet (CH0497)</figcaption><figure>
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In the cold mornings, I notice that the cold parts of my anatomy are neck, shoulders, upper back, top of arms. It is impractical to try and pull the heavy doona up to drape around one's shoulder. The doona is already needed elsewhere - to keep my legs and feet warm!
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So I decided to make a capelet that would cover up just those cold body parts.
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<h3>Work Notes</h3>
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There is no pattern for this crochet capelet. I made it up ad hoc style. So these below are just based on my memory as to what I did.
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I used Aran wt yarn and a 5mm hook.
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I started at the neck opening, with 80 sts (though I think, 60 would do next time).
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Then I increased the work like you do for a flat circle. Then no more increases so that it would drape over the shoulders and not flare out.
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I based the overlay crochet stitches on Lilla Bjorn's "Spanish Mandala Pillow" paid pattern.
You can find her <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/spanish-mandala-pillow-overlay-crochet" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spanish Mandala pattern</a> at her Ravelry store.
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When you have the length/height you want, crochet a bottom edging.
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Then make the turtle neck - which is my faux rib crochet. I wanted a rib look but also fairly soft; not dense and rigid.<br><br>
Go to <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2017/11/rib-crochet-how-to.html#fpdcrib">fpdc & chain faux rib</a> for more details.
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<h3>Looking for a Pattern?</h3>
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While I don't have a pattern for this short, round cape.. please have a look my <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/designers/helena-lim" target="_blank">Helena Lim Ravelry outlet</a> to see if you can find a similar pattern there. I know I need to add more patterns there, and I will ... as soon as time permits. (◍•ᴗ•◍)
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-4929509076160732972018-02-02T13:42:00.117+11:002024-01-31T14:18:27.301+11:00Large Crochet Amigurumi Cuddly Bunny - Peony Wabbit<br>
Peony Wabbit is another of my large crochet amigurumi bunnies. She is, we think, adorable and we carry her just like as if she is a real baby!! 𓆩♡𓆪
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Peony with flower in her ear, handmade fashion, large eyes with eyelashes is just like a big baby, albeit a crocheted bunny baby. She loves to be carried, cuddled, and brought to see new faces, places, and things. I wish her a life of love and adventure.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZhagTuVcVAkZNhomZ2Y6T9skapybnkfTWClIov-sLLx2eLPln_vqA6gYqrkmZV0SZx1I-eW2wH9I91RIvlWdCgQq0R_gU8TECyTDdakQWu3Pd1x6u0CBcSol9AFMryTVR72-APiclhtiwdgBVjo4TgUad0eSVg-zuwcGrjgL_M78NwzTYZFPYKWvqUH4/s1000/peony%20wabbit%20amigurumi%20bunny%20CH0491-001.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZhagTuVcVAkZNhomZ2Y6T9skapybnkfTWClIov-sLLx2eLPln_vqA6gYqrkmZV0SZx1I-eW2wH9I91RIvlWdCgQq0R_gU8TECyTDdakQWu3Pd1x6u0CBcSol9AFMryTVR72-APiclhtiwdgBVjo4TgUad0eSVg-zuwcGrjgL_M78NwzTYZFPYKWvqUH4/s600/peony%20wabbit%20amigurumi%20bunny%20CH0491-001.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Large Crochet Amigurumi Cuddly Bunny - Peony Wabbit (CH0491)</figcaption></figure>
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I don't mean to be indecent or even risque by lifting Peony's skirts here below. Rather I am merely showing more work details and what her tumtum looks like.
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<h3>Peony Wabbit’s Statistics, approximately…</h3>
<ul>
<li>weight: 875g</li>
<li>height: 28 inch/ 71 cm</li>
<li>production time: 4-5 days</li>
</ul>
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<small class="text-secondary">Status: 0875/1880 TN0 hl</small>
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<h3>Peony Wabbit & Amigurumi Friends</h3>
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Shown in the photos are Peony Wabbit and her bunny friend, <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2018/02/crochet-amigurumi-rabbit-marnie-wabbit.html/">Marnie Wabbit</a>. The other little friend, who may or may not be a dog, has yet to be blogged and listed. His name is Woofa.
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<div class="sgnarrator">As of this (re)posting, Woofa has been Chrissy-gifted to Ziggy in Dec 2023, a little human "amigurumi" (viz. a real baby!) who was created by Dion & Stef.</div>
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<h3>Some WIP notes on Peony Wabbit</h3>
Just some notes and not a full tutorial nor pattern.
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The stitch I used here is a combination of <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2017/11/circular-thermal-stitch-working-in-round.html">Circular Thermal Crochet Stitch</a> - it's double layering is ideal for amigurumi works; and <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2014/03/crochet-stitches-symbols-library.html#alignedcobblestitch">Aligned Cobble Stitch</a> - which gives it the textured surface.
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When you look at the Circular Thermal crochet stitch, you will see it has one round of working back stitches, and then a corresponding round of working front stitches. It is in the latter round that I apply the Aligned Cobble Stitch to create the textured front surface. Below are 2 very rough drafts when I was figuring out how to work these stitches together.
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This is the result of using the aforementioned stitch: a tightly, textured fabric. A fabric that is soft and not full of holes. No stuffing is going to fall out of our lovely, large, and cuddly crocheted amigurumi Peony Wabbit. ₍ᐢ. .ᐢ₎ 🐰
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-42348612542243161802018-02-01T17:17:00.067+11:002024-01-30T17:38:08.276+11:00Crochet Amigurumi Rabbit - Marnie Wabbit<br>
For a change, I am making soft, cuddly amigurumi crochet dolls rather than sturdy, heady, functional doorstops.
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This here is Marnie Wabbit.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5_sMencf6vrP6VC54VpEMKOPGeX5FLOiVtDEj-NSJp0OQU3InbySblnmVcfN-hSLrZl7XTwrCvKumJeX1n2_n0wV4kuva7qHmvm5fW0vHttVLI_gRi3X57FqcrrUIO4mBnU9umc2Qc8X9jIIAQtI0tHtBx9bjeEpUzBEjvzktkOXr5TsOaDKVeSh5N7z1/s1000/MarnieWabbit%20amigurumi%20rabbit%20CH0489-002.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5_sMencf6vrP6VC54VpEMKOPGeX5FLOiVtDEj-NSJp0OQU3InbySblnmVcfN-hSLrZl7XTwrCvKumJeX1n2_n0wV4kuva7qHmvm5fW0vHttVLI_gRi3X57FqcrrUIO4mBnU9umc2Qc8X9jIIAQtI0tHtBx9bjeEpUzBEjvzktkOXr5TsOaDKVeSh5N7z1/s600/MarnieWabbit%20amigurumi%20rabbit%20CH0489-002.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Crochet Amigurumi Rabbit - Marnie Wabbit (CH0489)</figcaption></figure>
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I am just posting a bunch of visuals. I am way behind (so what's new!) on my postings and bloggings.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJ_y4Fu87HQRWy5cNkR2vE9-RFvYI2qg6wTarnxJj63CCTYAinZMW5JJ-AN4H5APqDXGSBTeK6R8fJZpNTPQRYZFiVd14WTg_Lm9tbEd4j5Yh13iCLySevt5qZIlzjQpMpK4MFXjZ01decZidPvXXqQB9_Y4CFdHX8ZBpgtMtTHTydhaM909KQa5Ry4h0/s1000/MarnieWabbit%20amigurumi%20rabbit%20CH0489-001.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJ_y4Fu87HQRWy5cNkR2vE9-RFvYI2qg6wTarnxJj63CCTYAinZMW5JJ-AN4H5APqDXGSBTeK6R8fJZpNTPQRYZFiVd14WTg_Lm9tbEd4j5Yh13iCLySevt5qZIlzjQpMpK4MFXjZ01decZidPvXXqQB9_Y4CFdHX8ZBpgtMtTHTydhaM909KQa5Ry4h0/s600/MarnieWabbit%20amigurumi%20rabbit%20CH0489-001.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Crochet Amigurumi Rabbit - Marnie Wabbit (CH0489)</figcaption></figure>
<br><br><hr>
<h2>Marnie Wabbit's Statistics, approximately...</h2>
<ul>
<li>weight: 740g</li>
<li>height: 29.5 inch/ 75 cm</li>
</ul>
<br><br>
<div class="text-secondary">Status: 0740/1745 TN0 hl</div>
<br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe class="BLOG_video_class" allowfullscreen="" youtube-src-id="j5TKoqCAx8E" width="600" height="498" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/j5TKoqCAx8E"></iframe></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-48268577362668742982017-11-20T13:39:00.086+11:002024-01-21T14:05:25.016+11:00Rib Crochet; How ToI think there are a few ways to create Rib Crochet. This method is quite easy.
<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9oKtdCUy-PCRTPjdHfmJfMQ175rptoEfuzbR5wCmsUyJTpT5gIYHIwGW0pyIzQ2OzH4w3LPARCqOjCW0F5YRE42LL4n3GCkJArWhWchH-tvAHWnypS4cC1-3IY1S2pPVpf5pQ-MFSwyhxVdYNAPYD6i89rKL6F1Ck2r1LucrH8DAFhRCvJfJJBw5IMzVA/s800/rib-crochet-001.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9oKtdCUy-PCRTPjdHfmJfMQ175rptoEfuzbR5wCmsUyJTpT5gIYHIwGW0pyIzQ2OzH4w3LPARCqOjCW0F5YRE42LL4n3GCkJArWhWchH-tvAHWnypS4cC1-3IY1S2pPVpf5pQ-MFSwyhxVdYNAPYD6i89rKL6F1Ck2r1LucrH8DAFhRCvJfJJBw5IMzVA/s600/rib-crochet-001.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Faux Rib Crochet</figcaption></figure>
<a name='more'></a>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Notes</strong></span>
<ol>
<li>direction of work</li>
<li>rib crochet consists of alternating rows of:
sc row and
sl st row</li>
</ol>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Fabric Characteristics</strong></span>
<ul>
<li>quite dense, no big holes</li>
<li>mildly stretchy</li>
<li>not stiff</li>
</ul>
<br>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCPULLOKOW-Dg204c71h2w_DZjcR769rxHsPLn85zRFoNtq_G0QGCjtE-adYz1pNRQtjmaZ5vpvOVmxzuCpf2tx7RigdtAASvflmM3H7BW_-eg11KazOKmYPbhqEGjRGiwELKLnpw17PQ9PfxwWUCu6lYr2ny4EggzIWniPJCcOYMHV0o5d3sMkE6QLjGg/s800/rib-crochet-002.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCPULLOKOW-Dg204c71h2w_DZjcR769rxHsPLn85zRFoNtq_G0QGCjtE-adYz1pNRQtjmaZ5vpvOVmxzuCpf2tx7RigdtAASvflmM3H7BW_-eg11KazOKmYPbhqEGjRGiwELKLnpw17PQ9PfxwWUCu6lYr2ny4EggzIWniPJCcOYMHV0o5d3sMkE6QLjGg/s400/rib-crochet-002.jpg"/></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh87rCNjI1ium6br7b6YwJbZGB7VdzG2SUAPthNybVTb0sNfeF9fYoTHp-SmStiwBSnPr4vgpkIthA6vMJJewqO9w5YlXPPBSjwOvYwMKeGzVhoWFSD0bvtn3a6jL5BB5Foz8Zhh4Z9aS0kvZsgiQk_9cVwXAQoEJZ0rxG9Im1-fQfIlHTBTY5Grx8w-zll/s800/rib-crochet-003.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh87rCNjI1ium6br7b6YwJbZGB7VdzG2SUAPthNybVTb0sNfeF9fYoTHp-SmStiwBSnPr4vgpkIthA6vMJJewqO9w5YlXPPBSjwOvYwMKeGzVhoWFSD0bvtn3a6jL5BB5Foz8Zhh4Z9aS0kvZsgiQk_9cVwXAQoEJZ0rxG9Im1-fQfIlHTBTY5Grx8w-zll/s400/rib-crochet-003.jpg"/></a></div>
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<h2>Video Tutorial: Faux Rib Crochet</h2>
<div class="container text-center"><iframe class="BLOG_video_class" allowfullscreen="" youtube-src-id="UFFbZ7b2eYQ" width="600" height="498" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UFFbZ7b2eYQ"></iframe></div>
<br>
Tutorial by <i>Hopeful Honey</i> on YouTube.
<hr />
<h3>Other Faux Rib Crochet</h3>
3 differnt faux rib with varying elasticity using slip st, single crochet, hdc respectively.
<div class="container text-center">
<iframe class="BLOG_video_class" allowfullscreen="" youtube-src-id="D8H3lrvm-sQ" width="600" height="498" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/D8H3lrvm-sQ"></iframe></div>
<hr />
<a name="fpdcrib"></a>
<h3>fpdc & Chain Faux Rib</h3>
<div class="container clearfix">
<figure class="figure float-end"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqoccgFtghdctEn4-atjyE8axWUTgmGsQoo2WZKWLpkm2n48o_F9rf-nlrEDTu2k9SogjgVI90s0aOThScDO6BtCAKOA767n-EdUk0tk7hLzYmK5ovsMDOUmKlhyGq5J2MfZhEatM0Qq7sdXH3vpwIQ_Krj2vxOlvt3jm5uhCFpXhM4ILakaelNMGdu5ca/s800/fpdc-rib-crochet.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="320" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqoccgFtghdctEn4-atjyE8axWUTgmGsQoo2WZKWLpkm2n48o_F9rf-nlrEDTu2k9SogjgVI90s0aOThScDO6BtCAKOA767n-EdUk0tk7hLzYmK5ovsMDOUmKlhyGq5J2MfZhEatM0Qq7sdXH3vpwIQ_Krj2vxOlvt3jm5uhCFpXhM4ILakaelNMGdu5ca/s400/fpdc-rib-crochet.jpg"/></a></figure>
<br><br>
This faux rib consists mainly of fpdc (front post double crochet) and a chain inbetween them.
<br><br>
I used this in my <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2018/05/meditation-capelet-overlay-crochet.html">Meditation Capelet</a>.
fpdc & chain crochet rib produces a fabic that:
<ul>
<li>has a ribbed appearance on both sides; both elastic</li>
<li>is not dense but quite airy so it is good when you want a rib section that is quite soft</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin3TyiF6TG3NtOcN4fHdZFHj62otQvrUY4HWNjdGQ4DVaM5boS6xfmXyb2ARFvxg0a7j9c6aNZ1M93abTTj-eV4EQljaX2d8T9UbTr73zK0OdEz0ater3inDzv43_NAV1hK0REYOnYugAKSycymOpgs28ys_qWTOZGphVd9HDYXJ7WPs0Lony-RtisoN4k/s1000/fpdc-rib-crochet-000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="200" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin3TyiF6TG3NtOcN4fHdZFHj62otQvrUY4HWNjdGQ4DVaM5boS6xfmXyb2ARFvxg0a7j9c6aNZ1M93abTTj-eV4EQljaX2d8T9UbTr73zK0OdEz0ater3inDzv43_NAV1hK0REYOnYugAKSycymOpgs28ys_qWTOZGphVd9HDYXJ7WPs0Lony-RtisoN4k/s320/fpdc-rib-crochet-000.jpg"/></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqPUX5__0g6IR6VnszvTaEecJoGtzzgJ-YCm5stWZmUcqlGPc8ivNiFDZfhV56WUtHw4061w7u3ye6995YAyB0-cZ_L2cZDlBIkSl7uwm7R2aINJHL6hXq06iFoBKPflUP32ne-rFPVDcpGIZ2yBh8upmN8TaAyBpF8wGOCzALz1Gbpl3QyV4mMwa_cW10/s1000/fpdc-rib-crochet-001.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="200" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqPUX5__0g6IR6VnszvTaEecJoGtzzgJ-YCm5stWZmUcqlGPc8ivNiFDZfhV56WUtHw4061w7u3ye6995YAyB0-cZ_L2cZDlBIkSl7uwm7R2aINJHL6hXq06iFoBKPflUP32ne-rFPVDcpGIZ2yBh8upmN8TaAyBpF8wGOCzALz1Gbpl3QyV4mMwa_cW10/s320/fpdc-rib-crochet-001.jpg"/></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0rGG6hvFnmnjW8YaxzPHF42WfWMRjfI7KRsLGwxApIOolJLPIfw1ZheMk_ebRvTyOoffQYqVjcYXcyitnagTNE_9DDr5tT-0NsrKMVDQzwD342Ub5uqiffhaMbuaD6TMub8gRXlNl6TXoJ2q1Z6SjCWjT27Nop0Jr_ddhszLTxGPfQEA7XjkmuXNIN88/s1000/fpdc-rib-crochet-002.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="200" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0rGG6hvFnmnjW8YaxzPHF42WfWMRjfI7KRsLGwxApIOolJLPIfw1ZheMk_ebRvTyOoffQYqVjcYXcyitnagTNE_9DDr5tT-0NsrKMVDQzwD342Ub5uqiffhaMbuaD6TMub8gRXlNl6TXoJ2q1Z6SjCWjT27Nop0Jr_ddhszLTxGPfQEA7XjkmuXNIN88/s320/fpdc-rib-crochet-002.jpg"/></a>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-86356024742678592382017-11-12T17:01:00.144+11:002024-01-21T17:42:42.558+11:00Circular Thermal Stitch - Working in the RoundI introduced the <i>strap single crochet (ssc)</i>, then later discovered it was more commonly known as the <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2016/11/thermal-stitch-how-to-strong-crochet.html">Thermal Stitch</a> in an earlier post. However that was worked flat - to and fro; not circular. Today we will look at how to do the <strong>Circular Thermal Stitch</strong> i.e. working the Thermal Stitch in the round.
<br><br>
When making amigurumi items or Wayuu-like bags, we almost always work in the round. And since the Thermal Stitch is great for projects requiring dense (i.e. not holey) fabric, it is a great stich to use for amigurumi crochet or making Wayuu-like tapestry bags. So we need to know how to crochet the thermal stitch in the round for circular items.
<br><br>
<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5f6LGvq0Y_BKxzFIYeILy2J9ZMcOC92h0Suq1I3ySG8AqaFtJJRke9UozOA1OdNva7EqPBT2qe1ylNA5AHJda76yAdTg5A1wIAbDkHPb0XNuWbP4vtWC4UweXewhG56CJfBdveUrXVAfs5-1gSkYE01Mf57ia_D31lYcTQdntLwlJ8uPoYvEYW2BUBSB1/s444/strap-single-crochet-round-000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="444" data-original-width="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5f6LGvq0Y_BKxzFIYeILy2J9ZMcOC92h0Suq1I3ySG8AqaFtJJRke9UozOA1OdNva7EqPBT2qe1ylNA5AHJda76yAdTg5A1wIAbDkHPb0XNuWbP4vtWC4UweXewhG56CJfBdveUrXVAfs5-1gSkYE01Mf57ia_D31lYcTQdntLwlJ8uPoYvEYW2BUBSB1/s600/strap-single-crochet-round-000.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Circular Thermal Stitch, how to</figcaption></figure>
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<h2>Thermal Stitch - in the Round</h2>
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<u>R1</u>: just a normal row of single crochet (sc)
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8qpTmy7ekoZ4RVnbaoRd7dPQZtqiffCjniRlB7dWpXC85lQqRhQSZnL9_xaK1ISxvNcPZGWvLpThOTpJUsxXDt8w3RF9uvbciwFZkVpVaQacTpuuTdawIAsPZl2uJBzv0SPwJM-WFr3ueZJbW_LZftFC2sQY1RkN-D0CJp81CiTtZXG3p6sC8N7jbTcQ1/s800/strap-sc-round-001.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8qpTmy7ekoZ4RVnbaoRd7dPQZtqiffCjniRlB7dWpXC85lQqRhQSZnL9_xaK1ISxvNcPZGWvLpThOTpJUsxXDt8w3RF9uvbciwFZkVpVaQacTpuuTdawIAsPZl2uJBzv0SPwJM-WFr3ueZJbW_LZftFC2sQY1RkN-D0CJp81CiTtZXG3p6sC8N7jbTcQ1/s400/strap-sc-round-001.jpg"/></a></div>
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<u>R2</u>: You will notice there is a front loop at the bottom your previous row. Working only with front loops, pick up the bottom front loop and top front loop and finish a sc.
<br><br>
(<u>Tip</u>: remember to “hook under”x2 to get an untwisted “v”)
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBhyphenhyphen19eku1grZzYrxoaQ5vjK6Qt6hOJfogoQVSLhrTbV_1eldXkkR-a4Ha-TuaUm2Aom0z2rB9OvzBS7PDYAKGJQb0D-LRr_BWu7BSphwa3h3itC2RsUYO-G3iPRSheEmafy8ATlUA-qODBVvkbyaf8x4j93tIbMc0-lOmA9ER5CYfkLTZFYMuxE4psQr6/s800/strap-sc-round-002.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBhyphenhyphen19eku1grZzYrxoaQ5vjK6Qt6hOJfogoQVSLhrTbV_1eldXkkR-a4Ha-TuaUm2Aom0z2rB9OvzBS7PDYAKGJQb0D-LRr_BWu7BSphwa3h3itC2RsUYO-G3iPRSheEmafy8ATlUA-qODBVvkbyaf8x4j93tIbMc0-lOmA9ER5CYfkLTZFYMuxE4psQr6/s320/strap-sc-round-002.jpg"/></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ozD_1EMaqPAx8sXEam0VGtuXruY3Lz2T3aW3s8VaHElC4JnOFcpNw84PG1_IeUDE8Fd307jZeQtHpzjeRGfZnOr9DNta10RxMwly2qPEZpUF01MyIzgNaeUvQcEAPnXJBr1TI28-3Voq2qgTxcYG98C39IDi1QNUVdEstNhqqohYBXHrIf3RpEyKn0q_/s800/strap-sc-round-003.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ozD_1EMaqPAx8sXEam0VGtuXruY3Lz2T3aW3s8VaHElC4JnOFcpNw84PG1_IeUDE8Fd307jZeQtHpzjeRGfZnOr9DNta10RxMwly2qPEZpUF01MyIzgNaeUvQcEAPnXJBr1TI28-3Voq2qgTxcYG98C39IDi1QNUVdEstNhqqohYBXHrIf3RpEyKn0q_/s320/strap-sc-round-003.jpg"/></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkp9YRyz4QBLoHu6p9nZgGQwGPrhfqLR8wEonk9zd5pwsVa2qqpf1N5NbYtND8vZdT5rQPjDX7HeSjttanaurn0TcYKtFSpKvRyV0vQRXuaxqV9ew0ZlWH_dZtld0DAh0y8K6y8h2CIbE4JDg9AhxLblWm9EGeggPmWY4mrNIGHaJO6Spp1dsJHOr5pcVO/s800/strap-sc-round-004.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkp9YRyz4QBLoHu6p9nZgGQwGPrhfqLR8wEonk9zd5pwsVa2qqpf1N5NbYtND8vZdT5rQPjDX7HeSjttanaurn0TcYKtFSpKvRyV0vQRXuaxqV9ew0ZlWH_dZtld0DAh0y8K6y8h2CIbE4JDg9AhxLblWm9EGeggPmWY4mrNIGHaJO6Spp1dsJHOr5pcVO/s320/strap-sc-round-004.jpg"/></a>
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<u>R3</u>: the same as previous row, but working with 2 back loops
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Repeat these 2 rows.
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The instructions might be a bit confusing. But I think (hope) that when you actually do it, it will make more sense. Or if you already know how to do the <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2016/11/thermal-stitch-how-to-strong-crochet.html">Thermal Stitch</a>, then working in the round with the same stitch, might be easier.
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<hr>
<h2>Applications for Strap Single Crochet Stitch</h2>
<ul>
<li> This strap single crochet stitch produces a very dense fabric. So that makes it very suitable for making crochet Amigurumi.</li>
<li>The vertical stitches are almost unslanted. So this would be good for tapestry or Wayuu-like bags as well.</li>
<li>Note that this stitch produces significantly shorter rows.
Might have to double the number of rows compared to normal sc.</li>
<li>it also yields a substantially thicker fabric</li>
<li>The locations of increases (as in Amigurumi) are not visible.</li>
</ul>
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Note: in the image to the left, I was still using the term "Strap sc stitch". That was before I discovered that this stitch had a proper name: Thermal Stitch.
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-73315052772481547182017-11-12T16:36:00.058+11:002024-01-20T16:57:03.033+11:00Modified Crochet Stitch, Wayuu Crochet, Tapestry Crochet - How To<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidAiySjdlexUK1yvWyPh2U_JRePDi8lS3-x2eQXRzflycu-u9jSPT6JokN9XDFCVTVLC27Iz2_t485p2wpSOMQnd6MXW2WOIWVeKm-LB-KVt6YOIiB7La8LWevqn7Fi6aGRHbjY8CPNO_Q3nNtFBotdQcPwn7NZCt03ZUPzj1URDKEjXFkvC4GgGyW1Udd/s800/modifed-wayuu-tapestry-stitch-000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidAiySjdlexUK1yvWyPh2U_JRePDi8lS3-x2eQXRzflycu-u9jSPT6JokN9XDFCVTVLC27Iz2_t485p2wpSOMQnd6MXW2WOIWVeKm-LB-KVt6YOIiB7La8LWevqn7Fi6aGRHbjY8CPNO_Q3nNtFBotdQcPwn7NZCt03ZUPzj1URDKEjXFkvC4GgGyW1Udd/s600/modifed-wayuu-tapestry-stitch-000.jpg" width="600" /></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Modified Wayuu/Tapestry Crochet Stitch - How To</figcaption></figure><br /><br />
<p>I am not sure that Modified Crochet Stitch, being such a generic term, is the best nor correct name for this stitch. However I will leave it as is, mainly because this video I will refer you to, calls it just that.
<br /><br />
I also tend to call this Traditional Wayuu Stitch because this is the stitch most commonly used in making Wayuu Mochila bags. It is also a common stitch in Tapestry Crochet.</p>
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<div class="container text-center">
<iframe class="BLOG_video_class" allowfullscreen="" youtube-src-id="adSqJAcIhsg" width="600" height="498" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/adSqJAcIhsg"></iframe></div>
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<p>In the video, the crocheter talks about “yarn over” and “yarn under”. For the life of me, I can’t see how one is “yarn over” and the other “yarn under”. If I am looking at the yarn, then it is “yarn over” both times, to me.
<br /><br />
So I am showing the same stitch in photos below. Use whichever is more useful to you.
</p>
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The important thing with this modified/wayuu/tapestry stitch is:
<ul>
<li>crochet into <strong>back look</strong></li>
<li>complete the single crochet by putting
- "<strong>hook under</strong>"- "<strong>hook under</strong>" (if focusing on hook) or
- "<strong>yarn over</strong>" - "<strong>yarn over</strong>" (if focusing on the yarn)</li>
</ul>
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<h4>Finished Characteristics</h4>
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<ul>
<li>horizontal ridge on *front side <small class="text-secondary">(*front side = side of work facing you)</small></li>
<li>stitches stacked vertically-centered on top of each other => straight vertical lines. Ideal for wayuu and tapestry crochet</li>
<li>has small holes in fabric, which might not be ideal for amigurumi crochet when you have to stuff tightly</li>
</ul>
<p><br><br></p><hr>
<p><br><br></p>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-44623632502757150292017-11-12T13:20:00.034+11:002024-01-21T13:30:43.018+11:00Modified Shallow Single Crochet Stitch - How ToModified <span style="text-decoration: underline;">Shallow</span> Single Crochet Stitch is a variation of the single crochet (sc) stitch which is very much like the <a href="http://www.clearlyhelena.com/modified-crochet-stitch/">modified single crochet stitch</a> except it is more dense and has shorter rows.
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Because this modified shallow sc stitch produces such a dense, no-hole fabric, it is ideal for amigurumi crochet because the stuffing won't show through.
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<a name='more'></a>
<small><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Note</span>: I don't know if there is a proper name for this stitch. I made it up as I experimented. So I am calling it by this name till I know better. </small>
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<h4>Characteristics of Modified Shallow Sc Stitch</h4>
<ul>
<li>very dense (no holes)</li>
<li>shorter rows</li>
<li>vertically, stitches slant to left</li>
</ul>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-30696988297793099162017-03-15T17:24:00.177+11:002024-01-25T18:30:17.491+11:00Teddy Bear Crochet Baby Shoes, and How ToThis pair of Teddy Bear Crochet Baby Shoes is a brown, soft and cuddly pair of baby booties. Crochets steps and tips follows.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8c2N9tY2GHB1TBY6D3noWhN3vWoR59MIC13rLODbIk91VyT5TzOOijRBbSO0-CytvrtcTnB3T2dc3pdkEfgYrw-FlJBEWw_aQm8ObQc1TFbnIurk5dg9GJokJg47g1szekNEhd1PV6Ye8LNJZpnR4_uEjFL93P1DRzUkDFUUEjHRNiAVX88Faqe6cjsmP/s1000/teddy%20bear%20booties%20CH0429-000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8c2N9tY2GHB1TBY6D3noWhN3vWoR59MIC13rLODbIk91VyT5TzOOijRBbSO0-CytvrtcTnB3T2dc3pdkEfgYrw-FlJBEWw_aQm8ObQc1TFbnIurk5dg9GJokJg47g1szekNEhd1PV6Ye8LNJZpnR4_uEjFL93P1DRzUkDFUUEjHRNiAVX88Faqe6cjsmP/s600/teddy%20bear%20booties%20CH0429-000.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Teddy Bear Crochet Baby Shoes, and How To (CH0429)</figcaption></figure>
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<b><u>Size</u></b>:<br>
approx. 9cm long (Appropriate for ages 0-6 months)
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<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Materials</strong></span><br>
<ul>
<li>soft yarn (20% wool, 80% acrylic)</li>
<li>safety eyes & nose</li>
<li>3.5mm crochet hook</li>
</ul>
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<div class="sn">Status: g-- 0ML ~ (Gifted to M.Smith, Mar 2017)</div>
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<hr />
<h2>How To Make Teddy Bear Baby Booties</h2>
This is not a complete tutorial. But I hope that there will be enough how-to steps to give you the core and basis of how to make your own cute teddy bear baby booties
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<h3>Soles</h3>
I used single crochet (sc) stitches for the soles. This gives a much closer and firmer set of soles.
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Start with 10 stitches. 5 Rows. End with 40 stitches.
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To start, I used the <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2017/03/crochet-stitch-double-chain-foundation.html">Double Chain Foundation (DCF)</a> as the foudation, which provides a much firmer start. And is less holey.)
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<h5>Body - Sides</h5>
Work 3 rounds in single crochet
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<h5>Body - Top of Shoe</h5>
This is where you will do the decreased to shape the top of bootie.
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Instructions are in the form of a crochet chart. Why? Coz I find them so much easier than text only instructions.
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The chart below shows R1 to R7.
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Do not cut off yarn after R7. We will be continuing to the band.
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<b> After R7</b>, crochet 3 rows of sc to create band. Each row is 24 stitches. I did my sc in front loops only to create the horizontal ribbing. I also decorated the edging. You can use any decorative stitches you like.
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<h3>Face for Teddy Bear Booties</h3>
This is what Teddy’s face (minus the ears & mouth lines) should look like when done.
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Sorry. I am going to assume that you are an experienced crocheter and know how to make a crochet round ball. Well this face is half a ball.
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I started with magic circle of 6sc. Then worked each row with an increase of 6 stitches per row. There should be a total of 4 (increase) rows.
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• <b>R2</b>: 12 sc<br>
• <b>R3</b>: 18 sc<br>
• <b>R4</b>: 24 sc
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Then work <b>R5-6</b>: sc (no increase). Cut yarn.
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This domed shape for the face needs a <b>backing</b>. To make the backing piece for the face, crochet as per above, work R1-4 (24 sc). End.
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<h5>White Mouth Part</h5>
To make the white oval shape for the mouth-part, I relied on the soles chart above. Instead of starting on a foundation of 10 chains, you only need 4 stitches. The increases for both (rounded) ends are as per chart for the soles.
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Then sew on the oval, white mouth-part to the face.
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Next, attach the eyes and nose securely. (Note: .. <b>before</b> stuffing the face).
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Sew the corresponding circular back part (which you made earlier) to the back of the face. Leave a small gap. Into that gap, stuff in some soft stuffing. Sew up the gap.
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<h5>Ears</h5>
The ears are quite easy. Just make a more-than-half semi-circle. Here is what I did.
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I started with a magic circle. (Just don’t join the first to last stitch). But you can also start the with a chain and work the 7sc into that chain.
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<h3>Putting Teddy Bear Crochet Booties Together</h3>
Once all your bits and pieces are done, you can sew them up.
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Position the (stuffed) face onto the bootie and sew on. Then sew the ears on. You are done! 😀
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgtRBJQsU4tGHWWnRHbbxbI64sUrA6kwIpc8UPA_KA9iRIFzJJlj1_O-Q0bVfODZYLNmmDYAHEsP0uwvI9YLPJBEU90DWNC3RWReSrGgZt6dXlgcKMCQM1BQ6pjSfPtlLA3bfERzanSda-ApzH9vCR_TargNtfEkLrqNpBNYCuk1G9tOZBKPU1Q6K6dc0R/s1000/teddy%20bear%20booties%20CH0429-001.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgtRBJQsU4tGHWWnRHbbxbI64sUrA6kwIpc8UPA_KA9iRIFzJJlj1_O-Q0bVfODZYLNmmDYAHEsP0uwvI9YLPJBEU90DWNC3RWReSrGgZt6dXlgcKMCQM1BQ6pjSfPtlLA3bfERzanSda-ApzH9vCR_TargNtfEkLrqNpBNYCuk1G9tOZBKPU1Q6K6dc0R/s600/teddy%20bear%20booties%20CH0429-001.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Teddy Bead Crochet Booties (CH0429)</figcaption></figure>
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<b>Credit</b>:
<br>
Teddy Bear Booties came about during a lull in my crocheting phases. So I would like to thank Olivia from Hopeful Holly and her free pattern "<a href="http://www.hopefulhoney.com/2016/05/ellie-elephant-baby-booties-free.html" target="_blank" rel="ext noopener">Ellie Elephant Booties, Crochet Pattern</a>" for providing the idea and inspiration for this adapted crochet version.
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-51088467199849486932017-03-15T17:01:00.041+11:002024-01-30T17:14:15.273+11:00Pink Piggy Crochet Baby BootiesWhat can I say about this pair of pink piggy baby booties other than, "OMG. They are so cute." Before you get all flustered with me for indulging in self-praise, I will give you a link to where I got this free pattern. That is if you want to set your little fingers to crochet up a pair, or two, for a baby you might know?)
<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLt4K3fVHgxPnBfd_6wS6taAWlmUUfMm8CQVbBonaa2auyJbCpxsYrlCqowiLHOw0F8RTELN2Zl_meV0qreS_QKwdaXW7NY_vf4oO7on5XC2fploSnfO9Z42DZ0CN9yGayYddHM1M2qEpg4UrYTFzWGUftc2UAK9NfhhNSbu0omqtxY_8WxZ34_gbFoaiN/s1000/Pink%20Piggy%20Booties%20CH0430-000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLt4K3fVHgxPnBfd_6wS6taAWlmUUfMm8CQVbBonaa2auyJbCpxsYrlCqowiLHOw0F8RTELN2Zl_meV0qreS_QKwdaXW7NY_vf4oO7on5XC2fploSnfO9Z42DZ0CN9yGayYddHM1M2qEpg4UrYTFzWGUftc2UAK9NfhhNSbu0omqtxY_8WxZ34_gbFoaiN/s600/Pink%20Piggy%20Booties%20CH0430-000.jpg"/></a><figaption class="figcaption text-center"></figcaption>Pink Piggy Crochet Baby Booties (CH0430)</figure>
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<div class="text-secondary">Status: g030 OMO</div>
<b>Size</b>: 8.5cm length (suitable for 3-6 months)
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<h3>Credit</h3>:
This crocheted pink piggy booties was based on a free Crosby pattern "<a href="http://crobypatterns.com/free-crochet-pattern-piggy-baby-booties/" target="_blank" rel="ext">Piggy Baby Booties</a>" by crobypatterns.com.
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-66316380162591779652017-03-15T15:56:00.052+11:002024-01-24T16:07:08.052+11:00Elephant Crochet Baby Booties (CH0428)<br>
A quick posting on this adorable pair of baby Elephant Booties. Included here are some basic starting steps. And a link to the requisite free crochet pattern.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjux1PpigisRoba6aXw9c0AA61ZwGmN0vPTVGeKkStq0qVhYM2rS9VXfITXKth9woPVu-6_OlexvrFtVBdvffyQob74X-2FwzRjxOJsUIVbPVO6VwdrzLNnGhILJ_s_FBW_8deHPIpTwIj0s6iXJmhx7TQR69CRPtr7wetSCIC2wHK2jlGSQPlejzrO3uUt/s1000/elephant%20booties%20CH0428-000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjux1PpigisRoba6aXw9c0AA61ZwGmN0vPTVGeKkStq0qVhYM2rS9VXfITXKth9woPVu-6_OlexvrFtVBdvffyQob74X-2FwzRjxOJsUIVbPVO6VwdrzLNnGhILJ_s_FBW_8deHPIpTwIj0s6iXJmhx7TQR69CRPtr7wetSCIC2wHK2jlGSQPlejzrO3uUt/s600/elephant%20booties%20CH0428-000.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Elephant Crochet Baby Booties (CH0428)</figcaption></figure>
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<b>Materials</b>: 100% acrylic
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<div class="sn">Status: SOLD ~ (<i>gifted to Margaret Smith, Mar 2017</i>)</div>
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I got this free pattern from "<a href="http://www.hopefulhoney.com/2016/05/ellie-elephant-baby-booties-free.html" target="_blank" rel="ext">Ellie The Baby Elephant Booties</a>". <i>(Thank you very much Olivia for the pattern)</i>.
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<h3>Soles</h3>
As Olivia's free pattern is in text, I have translated the soles into this chart shown here. <i> (I find it easier to read.)</i>
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What I want to point out is:
<ul>
<li>apart from Row1, do not start each new row with any stand-up chains</li>
<li>do not finish any row with a slip stitch to first stitch of that row.</li>
<li>Rather, just begin next row in the first stitch of previous row.</li>
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When soles are complete, cut and weave in ends.
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<h3>Body</h3>
Join yarn and start at the middle of back heel.
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<b>R1-3</b>: sc for 3 rows
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For the rest of the steps, I refer you to Olivia's wonderful and free "<a href="http://www.hopefulhoney.com/2016/05/ellie-elephant-baby-booties-free.html" target="_blank" rel="ext">Ellie The Baby Elephant Booties</a>".
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-26797736368956480122017-03-11T17:48:00.056+11:002024-01-25T18:46:21.649+11:00Crochet Stitch: Double Chain Foundation (DCF)<br>
Double Chain Foundation (DCF) - what is it good for? It is especially good for when you have a foundation chain that has to be crocheted on both sides. A good example is when you are making booties. The DCF provides a stronger, less holey start to your work.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS7CMckwNdjmaWcsC97ZxXRFtqJCjz5fjmc43sxGm1GSQsR7emi0OMfYhLuefTrBUMkpHzTabrnOaJZ4kWGCQSc2YLA_Bs84Z1JJ5_OVmu2fJ7qDME8WOZe8ypU8Ag47SR-F1vtAlkWyTNFt-_2fpesoI81q_ytZl56fLGrcV-zHeLSH1P72ONQxMQyAOk/s1000/double%20chain%20foundation-000.gif" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="428" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS7CMckwNdjmaWcsC97ZxXRFtqJCjz5fjmc43sxGm1GSQsR7emi0OMfYhLuefTrBUMkpHzTabrnOaJZ4kWGCQSc2YLA_Bs84Z1JJ5_OVmu2fJ7qDME8WOZe8ypU8Ag47SR-F1vtAlkWyTNFt-_2fpesoI81q_ytZl56fLGrcV-zHeLSH1P72ONQxMQyAOk/s600/double%20chain%20foundation-000.gif"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-cente">Double Chain Foundation (DCF) for starting crochet in the Round</figcaption></figure>
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I first thought of using the Double Chain Foundation when I was making baby booties. The normal start always bothered me because working all around a length of foundation chain stitches always seemed a bit flimsy to me. Plus I didn't like the "holey" aspect of it in the finished item.
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The photo above may not give you as clear a difference in both methods as one would wish. But when you are actually working with the DCF, you will find that it does make a difference. So how do you make a Double Chain Foundation?
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<h2>How to: Crochet Double Chain Foundation</h2>
<div class="sgnarrator">Basically do slip stitches along the “ridge” of each chain.</div>
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<ol>
<li>Chain [number of required stitches + 1]. Then hook into "ridge" of next chain.</li>
<li>Pull yarn through both loops on hook. (You are basically doing slip stitches on the "ridge" of each chain.)</li>
<li>Continue slip stitching. You should end up with your [number of required stitches] at the end of the row.</li>
</ol>
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The two photos below compares the normal foundation row vs the DCF row.
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Once you have your Double Chain Foundation, you can continue with making the soles of your booties as per normal.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS7CMckwNdjmaWcsC97ZxXRFtqJCjz5fjmc43sxGm1GSQsR7emi0OMfYhLuefTrBUMkpHzTabrnOaJZ4kWGCQSc2YLA_Bs84Z1JJ5_OVmu2fJ7qDME8WOZe8ypU8Ag47SR-F1vtAlkWyTNFt-_2fpesoI81q_ytZl56fLGrcV-zHeLSH1P72ONQxMQyAOk/s1000/double%20chain%20foundation-000.gif" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="428" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS7CMckwNdjmaWcsC97ZxXRFtqJCjz5fjmc43sxGm1GSQsR7emi0OMfYhLuefTrBUMkpHzTabrnOaJZ4kWGCQSc2YLA_Bs84Z1JJ5_OVmu2fJ7qDME8WOZe8ypU8Ag47SR-F1vtAlkWyTNFt-_2fpesoI81q_ytZl56fLGrcV-zHeLSH1P72ONQxMQyAOk/s600/double%20chain%20foundation-000.gif"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-cente">Double Chain Foundation (DCF) for starting crochet in the Round</figcaption></figure>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-33172460293558313242017-01-10T01:58:00.062+11:002024-01-16T02:24:48.017+11:00African Butterfly Magic Hair Clip - DIY How To Make<p>African Butterfly Magic Hair Clip is alternatively known as double hair comb with elastic, butterfly clip, hairclip, double magic hair comb, double beaded hair comb, magic hair comb. If you have used a Butterfly Magic Hair Clip before you will fully appreciate how much better they are than just about any other hair clip. Butterfly Magic Hair Clip is very easy to use, very firm, and works whether you have a lot of hair or very little (like me). (See video at the end of post for how to use a butterfly magic hair clip).</p>
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<figcaption class="figcaption text-center">HOW TO MAKE AFRICAN BUTTERFLY MAGIC HAIR CLIP (CH0421)</figcaption>
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<p>They are super comfortable. You can even sleep with them and they don’t dig into your scalp or cause you to have pulled-scalp pains at the end of a day. This post is about how to make an African Butterfly Magic Hair Clip. Once I had tried my first Magic Hair Clip (thanks to Joy Belle, my wonderful mother in law), I was in love. And next, I had to find out how to make them myself.</p>
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<h3>How to Make Butterfly Magic Hair Clip</h3>
<p>It is not obvious how to string the elastic cord, hence this how-to guide.</p>
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1) There are 2 sides to the hair clip. Place teeth facing each other.<hr>
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2) Place both sides atop each other. This is basically how you will be working. This way the length and tension of the elastic cord will be correct.<hr>
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3) The elastic cord is about 63cm to start.
Tip: dip the ends of the cord in glue or Arabic gum. The ends will be stronger and easier to work with. And less likely to fray while working with it.<hr>
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4) I made some beaded beads and connectors for the butterfly magic hair clip. Keep in mind that the holes have to be large enough for the elastic cord – some with multiple passes.<hr>
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<p>5) Below, refer to graphed paper for steps in threading the butterfly magic hair clip.</p>
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6) Flip comb over. Adjust elastic cord length and tension. Tie knot and apply small amount of glue for more security.
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<p><b>FYI: How to Use a Butterfly Magic Hair Clip</b></p>
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NJAyoixfp3U" title="African Butterfly Hairclips" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p>Credit: YouTube Video by <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC54cNwVEr8GzD-s8NMJR84g" target="_blank" rel="ext noopener">MonoLeeSwap</a></p>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-48747073657198150622016-12-07T16:10:00.000+11:002024-01-15T23:54:48.079+11:00GHHORIZONTAL Tapestry Crochet BagGHHORIZONTAL tapestry crochet bag celebrates colour and joie de vivre in tribal geometric pattern.
<div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDp0sm4dePw04MkYyQMTYzAKhTZixCgHvZgXzQXFDn_waAbUdibC2CeoL_GQdMEd1KhE1V6vyW8L9CJLjWi8abg9Qfs_2jqAizy7xDWTsfIrK_N-TNgzI7K06ELfzPxaFVJ7n-8gKBdIeY5GznB9APdxIaFzJLGsbN8ktZ-MTHZ_xPknHAy18xI32tsyb3/s1000/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-001.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="GHHORIZONTAL TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG (CH0422)" border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDp0sm4dePw04MkYyQMTYzAKhTZixCgHvZgXzQXFDn_waAbUdibC2CeoL_GQdMEd1KhE1V6vyW8L9CJLjWi8abg9Qfs_2jqAizy7xDWTsfIrK_N-TNgzI7K06ELfzPxaFVJ7n-8gKBdIeY5GznB9APdxIaFzJLGsbN8ktZ-MTHZ_xPknHAy18xI32tsyb3/s16000/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-001.jpg" title="GHHORIZONTAL TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG (CH0422)" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face="Montserrat, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #bbbbbb; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 1px; text-transform: uppercase;">GHHORIZONTAL TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG (CH0422)</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div>
You would be hard pressed to try and figure out why I named this “GHHORIZONTAL Tapestry Crochet Bag”. But the reason is quite simple. It is to point at and give credit to the underlying design used as my source of inspiration.
<div><br /></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">Credit: The source of design inspiration comes from Artist Vasare Nar. I originally found an image of her design on Pinterest and later, from her own site. Check out her GHHORIZONTAL original design where you can find links to her design in various product forms (prints, rug, ipad skin, etc.)
</span></div></blockquote><div><br /></div><div>As you can see below, my graphed is similar but not identical to the original pattern. Nonetheless, it definitely was my source of inspiration.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhIHrdNP3quQ_2_dJ9bUFbmwlJqZWtbRRbEL-QbyW5j8BUeFeM6PzT8bA9q6W789-egW8LvJxYml4NATAcOhEMEhSU0uvrQ55bz94nQL02EQ9SCMG8fafSJToo_c7vL1qONXV1NhHEjp0X8k9jaq03rndrJ_OmPs-W0_FKlyIIcZ7wvoeFZUUW-Tr0I1Z/s1000/ghhorizontal%20tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20004.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhIHrdNP3quQ_2_dJ9bUFbmwlJqZWtbRRbEL-QbyW5j8BUeFeM6PzT8bA9q6W789-egW8LvJxYml4NATAcOhEMEhSU0uvrQ55bz94nQL02EQ9SCMG8fafSJToo_c7vL1qONXV1NhHEjp0X8k9jaq03rndrJ_OmPs-W0_FKlyIIcZ7wvoeFZUUW-Tr0I1Z/w240-h320/ghhorizontal%20tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20004.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The circular base design found its inspiration from a graphed pattern I found on Pinterest.
</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu8Z1RPRXpRh-5S3L8Ai2Nk5TpkXYTjBBsrKyq3VyZFbDU4f7Kqvldm8UHaVAxDOvPYyWeo5GavmpFDzQGetf_xr6GD2YxCB7Fgm2tI954m7JmV53o_DOM0UesyGLmpacBaavaYi-dJj-44OnlcfNjH6JZVef3UM9JwdmwmRCeAvlhCwKwR5h8bmgjgQRm/s646/ghhorizontal%20tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20005.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="646" data-original-width="582" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu8Z1RPRXpRh-5S3L8Ai2Nk5TpkXYTjBBsrKyq3VyZFbDU4f7Kqvldm8UHaVAxDOvPYyWeo5GavmpFDzQGetf_xr6GD2YxCB7Fgm2tI954m7JmV53o_DOM0UesyGLmpacBaavaYi-dJj-44OnlcfNjH6JZVef3UM9JwdmwmRCeAvlhCwKwR5h8bmgjgQRm/w360-h400/ghhorizontal%20tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20005.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwScEfpIbP2tcCTWiM4aw4_SO5zFi9oyLxmOW8pThZCrmiXf4Qoji8wDnjZf-m2gT5frsHiWM_xlmEPBApSG0fggK0_pOF2Xmw83xK-Y_7hL9AkExql3cveU74ieAi9SYAHo6qrD5kl_NTIbdj0mhkZO9sdLbeSw2MnqGFdz4lNNg7RGFJRfSnK3r2HnM4/s800/ghhorizontal%20tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20006.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwScEfpIbP2tcCTWiM4aw4_SO5zFi9oyLxmOW8pThZCrmiXf4Qoji8wDnjZf-m2gT5frsHiWM_xlmEPBApSG0fggK0_pOF2Xmw83xK-Y_7hL9AkExql3cveU74ieAi9SYAHo6qrD5kl_NTIbdj0mhkZO9sdLbeSw2MnqGFdz4lNNg7RGFJRfSnK3r2HnM4/w400-h400/ghhorizontal%20tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20006.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">And as with my other tapestry crochet bags, I have used large grommets to provide the holes for the drawstring. So much better looking than just leaving holes in the work, don’t you think?</span></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw4Y30GNp75kg1fSPLeJDGcezIQG3SmSH3dhGyK-X0hMFFl2Rv8mVNnysX8Gw5FTXBmvddo_bhyGxwxKxMJGgskmbhffuUZPzQPW-PLNEJxRTNZC8MoXey8xdXpJFenxgir_nl74efc312UukupVbvvUl4xwyFt8XtStDXpJASPld12uvKdIGzOTL8muNs/s300/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-007-300x300.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="300" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw4Y30GNp75kg1fSPLeJDGcezIQG3SmSH3dhGyK-X0hMFFl2Rv8mVNnysX8Gw5FTXBmvddo_bhyGxwxKxMJGgskmbhffuUZPzQPW-PLNEJxRTNZC8MoXey8xdXpJFenxgir_nl74efc312UukupVbvvUl4xwyFt8XtStDXpJASPld12uvKdIGzOTL8muNs/w640-h640/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-007-300x300.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><span></span><div></div>
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<div>Some detailed photos of the GHHORIZONTAL tapestry crochet bag.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTb9vP6KL19CfU0FxHiZm0Plubxw6SfwGt6zjqt_JWMIIycvpBy0oFOkhrMxv5wvG8AIEvHwb4sRZvAE2_C4Cinrw6A36iOP9lGjMXoiDnhzMbQYp6M6ugNrMq9p18jkXMdWVZdtxLgURrA5iYVyEs2EKSBcB46c4UFtQbqZW1wLZuPyoCOwtufeeweAcz/s1000/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-008.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTb9vP6KL19CfU0FxHiZm0Plubxw6SfwGt6zjqt_JWMIIycvpBy0oFOkhrMxv5wvG8AIEvHwb4sRZvAE2_C4Cinrw6A36iOP9lGjMXoiDnhzMbQYp6M6ugNrMq9p18jkXMdWVZdtxLgURrA5iYVyEs2EKSBcB46c4UFtQbqZW1wLZuPyoCOwtufeeweAcz/w640-h640/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-008.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrye2hUtTN9AvoV1FaT7neNtCMRBVwZkYy1qw80prspCDX005OzbnXGXniTtuvu5Vo4IaFFLuWLXQCJrqgb1rbw-mCQ7U_BrsCOXP_nESxQGDwWhG2z7MsOkzX38f5mG9DCARmD4HNP4LXJXWgcEi1ttF6f45-qFPAsVE4bWWYbYvdY9lI7NLiQ1OJgtP5/s1000/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrye2hUtTN9AvoV1FaT7neNtCMRBVwZkYy1qw80prspCDX005OzbnXGXniTtuvu5Vo4IaFFLuWLXQCJrqgb1rbw-mCQ7U_BrsCOXP_nESxQGDwWhG2z7MsOkzX38f5mG9DCARmD4HNP4LXJXWgcEi1ttF6f45-qFPAsVE4bWWYbYvdY9lI7NLiQ1OJgtP5/w640-h640/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-009.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKo7jQbhWLKloJqZtBGuuRobzh4aB5KWrfpXTYXztRXPUu8VtfXSWGOZoE0A7xxjfEZG6h9eKikhZIKKKMycaPwY-5lP3OFmTH8zv3BFXTptyOwTeIyAMFIBl6QRrl1b4MIT2i_N-fTokiNewfw4qSESJmHQBBFC5ELvWMHexcNr2E-M5pujRLskfQQmbl/s1000/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-010.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKo7jQbhWLKloJqZtBGuuRobzh4aB5KWrfpXTYXztRXPUu8VtfXSWGOZoE0A7xxjfEZG6h9eKikhZIKKKMycaPwY-5lP3OFmTH8zv3BFXTptyOwTeIyAMFIBl6QRrl1b4MIT2i_N-fTokiNewfw4qSESJmHQBBFC5ELvWMHexcNr2E-M5pujRLskfQQmbl/w640-h640/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-010.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8bBG7_1640kaDUOnSoDUKpw_OffLiR5F28UTmr8UzPsA3x8tDdwYOEDw6EC0ZL9QRZLfvg6kWawjaskoAq-4T_Y1Jdapj7PGmW7FG_Guf-nU-fOrEstMd0vT8TNcVgB9d4GAZWRGzE-ZdRhZpMGnFz6s8p2oS5cuUHX76ZnIoWiezF7rfGqnhZa7HhNla/s1000/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8bBG7_1640kaDUOnSoDUKpw_OffLiR5F28UTmr8UzPsA3x8tDdwYOEDw6EC0ZL9QRZLfvg6kWawjaskoAq-4T_Y1Jdapj7PGmW7FG_Guf-nU-fOrEstMd0vT8TNcVgB9d4GAZWRGzE-ZdRhZpMGnFz6s8p2oS5cuUHX76ZnIoWiezF7rfGqnhZa7HhNla/w640-h640/ghhorizontal-tapestry-crochet-bag-011.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div>
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<div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">Specifications & Features</h4><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>base diameter: approx 28cm / 11"</li><li>height: 32cm / 12.6"</li><li>very strong and sturdy large holdall bag</li><li>can be worn over shoulder or across body</li><li>bag strap with adjustable length</li><li>classy, secure metal grommets for drawstring</li><li>hand-crocheted matching drawstring with polished wood and Czech beads</li><li>unlined</li><li>strong hardware for strap buckle</li></ul><div></div></div>
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<div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">Core Materials</h4><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>strong acrylic yarn</li><li>Czech beads, wooden beads</li><li>metal buckle</li><li>metal grommets</li></ul><div><span style="color: #cccccc;">(Status: g340 NKL )</span></div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div></div>
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<div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">Techniques</h4><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Body: tapestry crochet with knit-single-crochet (aka <b>waistcoat stitch</b>) as the main stitch</li><li>Base: tapestry crochet with waistcoat stitch as the main stitch</li><li>Shoulder-strap: using strong, non-stretchy strap-sc stitch, aka <b>Thermal stitch</b></li><li>Drawstring Cord: Duo Sided Crochet Cord (aka Romanian Cord, or Romanian Crochet Cord)</li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr-_2nykpQhIajKLvPtvzMOt_vFE9LDMtP2xUQ-NTsBhyiga293Y2dNOYV3uM92TldvC89j-XyanBYtf3voVsRxcnm4mkjOWHmHEijoeRWjHwTRD_THAk3KbYWXxfVyqNDHDD49Hf8vR1fbWr4sq2y35D66Ymp8c76xRdiMpqeucAoqcboDekPx0Vk0TOl/s1200/ghhorizontal%20tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr-_2nykpQhIajKLvPtvzMOt_vFE9LDMtP2xUQ-NTsBhyiga293Y2dNOYV3uM92TldvC89j-XyanBYtf3voVsRxcnm4mkjOWHmHEijoeRWjHwTRD_THAk3KbYWXxfVyqNDHDD49Hf8vR1fbWr4sq2y35D66Ymp8c76xRdiMpqeucAoqcboDekPx0Vk0TOl/w640-h640/ghhorizontal%20tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20000.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-74725061155085461422016-11-26T18:13:00.000+11:002024-01-15T23:54:07.380+11:00Tapestry Crochet Bag - Cat and Fishes<p>This "Cat & Fishes" is one of my first tapestry crochet bag. This is a one-off, no repeat design. I drew and graphed the pattern, pulling from a number of sources of inspiration (see below). Unlike other tapestry crochet and also unlike Wayuu bags, this tapestry bag is done in the extremely strong and dense knit-sc stitch which produces the intriguing stockinette-looking stitch. I have included lots of metal bag hardware - coz' they always look so good on a bag, don't they?!!</p>
<figure>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1eQqWcc_GrzDBN-g6o48KjUPOuJcbgMBhU1rG_t16aA7-7omuG-5yZP8tK6I-8uuBwt1xn_mgNTPur1roxhJYNvILyzZtEK0gC5u0WBj749dzcO3DFPCeZ2Vwkmf7d28MWpOYtHQaOwinAQ6ESUI6pyZfVLWN1jeuO1PV8U5sSZ5dHMxsPhCXtIz1dBjY/s1333/tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20cat%20and%20fishes%20000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1333" data-original-width="1000" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1eQqWcc_GrzDBN-g6o48KjUPOuJcbgMBhU1rG_t16aA7-7omuG-5yZP8tK6I-8uuBwt1xn_mgNTPur1roxhJYNvILyzZtEK0gC5u0WBj749dzcO3DFPCeZ2Vwkmf7d28MWpOYtHQaOwinAQ6ESUI6pyZfVLWN1jeuO1PV8U5sSZ5dHMxsPhCXtIz1dBjY/s600/tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20cat%20and%20fishes%20000.jpg" /></a>
<figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Cat & Fishes Tapestry Crochet Bag (CH0417)</figcaption>
</figure>
<p></p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>This tapestry crochet bag is a one-off, one-time ClearlyHelena design. It is very sturdy and hardy (made in knit-single crochet stitch).</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw87mOiTJMABBdNXHr8k8y8LUUZrF_zCm_qyexNkGuBcApD8eTkCjIRzttu8kRbU4RBQFlWmUAKFE6vTQNdyaX98eis3zt8AdMOOvDA_f7poiuAbXtPNOJ_Hdrgv0s1dHKsim0PFV5_i4sR0Jo_8CU4acOi2bG35z8AZYygN4CGNbA1eG-N1aKEhsxGGw4/s1000/tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20cat%20and%20fishes%20001.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw87mOiTJMABBdNXHr8k8y8LUUZrF_zCm_qyexNkGuBcApD8eTkCjIRzttu8kRbU4RBQFlWmUAKFE6vTQNdyaX98eis3zt8AdMOOvDA_f7poiuAbXtPNOJ_Hdrgv0s1dHKsim0PFV5_i4sR0Jo_8CU4acOi2bG35z8AZYygN4CGNbA1eG-N1aKEhsxGGw4/s400/tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20cat%20and%20fishes%20001.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3VReucgxpnWjcAwCkCh-ro-l4ux2-vvkm1pnD0zqSa_Z3jpWEcAyOf8MUkgFXAZrJ_iuTW5V3uwq3n5WnynJJk-MYy8DmAARFZbWNYzshCumKa9kqSrqxKYuDoIXFkRto0EADeaLQF4kcdu6fP5t3sTF0tAY6_kqatujZA9xwHzzVBxsmNjLkt-p5jw_7/s1000/tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20cat%20and%20fishes%20002.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3VReucgxpnWjcAwCkCh-ro-l4ux2-vvkm1pnD0zqSa_Z3jpWEcAyOf8MUkgFXAZrJ_iuTW5V3uwq3n5WnynJJk-MYy8DmAARFZbWNYzshCumKa9kqSrqxKYuDoIXFkRto0EADeaLQF4kcdu6fP5t3sTF0tAY6_kqatujZA9xwHzzVBxsmNjLkt-p5jw_7/s400/tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20cat%20and%20fishes%20002.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb3whJndu5_CBCBunPcAuNpJ3ZG1i4Mg-hF1FhWKWWpxGX-qRI61QJwHvQTMwxzgKPpok2RoizrzXg2Gd3Zg061Ml6w2RkYpwB_OywPoknZ7py7b0x6jg5sSyIqZZCUYygoI-1i2GIP-cJBi-7blKynqltJHWMeSSe9AphtXJhBP5CeTzVSMAhBf1vmpGP/s1000/tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20cat%20and%20fishes%20003.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb3whJndu5_CBCBunPcAuNpJ3ZG1i4Mg-hF1FhWKWWpxGX-qRI61QJwHvQTMwxzgKPpok2RoizrzXg2Gd3Zg061Ml6w2RkYpwB_OywPoknZ7py7b0x6jg5sSyIqZZCUYygoI-1i2GIP-cJBi-7blKynqltJHWMeSSe9AphtXJhBP5CeTzVSMAhBf1vmpGP/s400/tapestry%20crochet%20bag%20cat%20and%20fishes%20003.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<p></p>
<hr />
<h3>Specifications & Features</h3>
<ul>
<li>base diamater: approx. 27cm / 10.6in</li>
<li>height: 40cm / 15.7in</li>
<li>very strong and sturdy large holdall bag</li>
<li>can be worn over shoulder or across body</li>
<li>bag strap with adjustable length</li>
<li>classy, secure metal eyelets for drawstring</li>
<li>hand-crocheted matching drawstring</li>
<li>hand beaded strap stabilizer (Delica beads)</li>
<li>fully lined with internal pockets</li>
<li>magnetic button on pocket</li>
<li>musical bell & red turquoise bud for drawstring/cord ending</li>
<li>hand beaded drawstring stopper (Delica beads)</li>
<li>strong hardware for strap buckle, ring, and rivet</li>
<li>reinforced round mandala crocheted base</li>
</ul>
<p></p>
<strong>Core Materials</strong>
<ul>
<li>strong acrylic yarn</li>
<li>red turquoise bead cap (flower bud)</li>
<li>metal buckle</li>
<li>metal grommets & eyelets</li>
<li>cotton lining</li>
</ul>
<p></p>
<small style="color: #999999;">status: g650 ML0 et</small>
<hr />
<p>
I have included grommets for the drawstring to offer easier opening and closing. There is a shinny, red beaded cord stopper to provide more features. You can also lightly tie a bow to close. The handmade drawstring cord ends with a charming red turquoise flower bud with handwired bells.
<br /><br />
This bag can be worn over the shoulder or across body. The bag strap is adjustable.
<br /><br />
Bag is fully lined and comes with an inner pocket and a magnetic closure.
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The colours are bright, funky, whimsical, happy and with a touch of cheeky retro.
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Bag has been protected with a water-shield treatment, making the surface water-repellant. (This should last for many months.)
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You can view details of these features in the photos below.
</p>
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<p></p>
<hr />
<h3>Techniques</h3>
<ul>
<li>Body: tapestry crochet with knit single-crochet (aka waistcoat stitch) as the main stitch</li>
<li>Base: overlay crochet adapted from "<a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/398387961/spanish-mandala-overlay-crochet-pattern" rel="ext noopener" target="_blank">Spanish Mandala</a>" design byTatsiana Kupryianchyk from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/LillaBjornCrochet?ref=l2-shop-info-name" rel="ext noopener" target="_blank">LillaBjornCrochet</a></li>
<li>Shoulder strap: using strong, non-stretchy strap-sc stitch</li>
<li>Drawstring Cord: Duo Sided Crochet Cord</li>
<li>Cord Stopper and Strap Stabilizer: bead weaving (Peyote stitch)</li>
</ul>
<p></p>
<hr>
<h3>Sources of Inspiration</h3>
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<p></p>
<p>The general inspiration for the tapestry crochet bag was from looking at the many beautiful Wayuu bags.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Bag Base: Overlay crochet technique. Instead of the standard tapestry crochet base, I decided to try a mandala. This Mandala was adapted from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/398387961/spanish-mandala-overlay-crochet-pattern" target="_blank" rel="ext noopener">Spanish Mandala</a> by LillaBjornCrochet.</p>
<p></p>
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<p>Cat Graphed Pattern: (the original link is no longer available) I think I saw this graph on Pinterest at some stage. I changed the graphed eyes to make them look at the fishies!</p>
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<p>Fishes: This was inspired by a tapestry pattern I found on Pinterest. At the time of this writing, this pattern no longer seems available but it was previously available from emilypeacocktapestry Etsy store where she offers needlepoint and cross stitch kits. I only based my graphing roughly on the inspiration derived from her happy fishes.</p>
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<p></p>
<hr>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-90561104429762414072016-11-16T14:53:00.186+11:002024-01-21T16:56:11.356+11:00Thermal Stitch, how to - Strong Crochet StrapI made up a name for this very useful stitch. I call it “<i>strap single crochet stitch</i>” or “<i>ssc stitch</i>” or “<i>strap sc stitch</i>” - because I first made it up when trying to find a way to make a strong, sturdy, (almost) non-stretch, smooth edged strap.
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<div class="sgnarrator"><u>Addendum: 10 May 2018</u>
Thanks to the readers who left me comments, I now know that I was not the first to create it (as I suspected) and this stitch has a proper name: namely <strong>Thermal Stitch</strong> or <strong>Siberian Stitch</strong>.
Thank you Cheryl, Brigitta, May!</div>
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiW6kL01xMITxub6Bgd5sOYvINs4nby_kNmX4BR1wgDdIcNbHofOKLzqeI9-_m7XFz_3Pssi06Dc2dfzghKCaHt-LmM0Pn_dk9zUbL8CZhP3Ll0bMj5m1RG4kBsnSGG-s5eniFfQY2MaF0YB9QL_wd-6QATI3r64iRyKFJlsjSLvZgauprKE6GQ2NP7Pmz/s1000/crochet-strap000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiW6kL01xMITxub6Bgd5sOYvINs4nby_kNmX4BR1wgDdIcNbHofOKLzqeI9-_m7XFz_3Pssi06Dc2dfzghKCaHt-LmM0Pn_dk9zUbL8CZhP3Ll0bMj5m1RG4kBsnSGG-s5eniFfQY2MaF0YB9QL_wd-6QATI3r64iRyKFJlsjSLvZgauprKE6GQ2NP7Pmz/s600/crochet-strap000.jpg" width="600" /></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">How to Make Strong Crochet Strap with Thermal Stitch</figcaption></figure>
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I have been making some crochet bags lately. They are sturdy and strong. And I wanted to make a crochet strap that would complement the whole feel of the bags. I wanted some strong crochet straps that would not stretch nor look sloppy. But none of the crochet stitches I knew could produce what I wanted. So I had to come up with something new (to me) ... and it worked beautifully!
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And though I searched Mr Google thoroughly, I could not find what I wanted. The closest I could find were the woven straps for Wayuu bags. However I didn't want to take the time right then to learn how to weave that kind of strap. It did look very time consuming.
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</div>
<br /><br />
Luckily I found a way to make the crochet strap I wanted. It is sturdy, strong, easy to crochet, and does not stretch much. Further more, it has lovely straight edges ... which is not always a given but always a bonus with crochet. It is identical on both sides and quite comfortingly thick.
<br /><br />
<div class="sn">Sidenote: I am sorry I don't have a how-to video on this. I don't know how to do a close up video tutorial. I have tried and tried. I have asked and asked Mr Google. I still don't know how. So the follow pictorial+text how-to crochet strong strap will have to do for now.</div>
<hr />
<h3>How To Crochet Strong Strap for Bags</h3>
Actually it can be used for bags, belts, strapping, or anywhere you think you might need a strong strap.
<br /><br />
In this example, I am making a strap of 6 stitches.
<br /><br />
<div class="container text-center">
<div class="row row-cols-2">
<div class="col align-self-center"><u>
Foundation Row</u>: 6ch
</div>
<div class="col">
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</div>
<div class="col-12"><hr /></div>
<div class="col align-self-center"><u>
Row 1</u>: 1 ch (a standup chain to start new row; like you would normally do), and 6sc (single crochet) normally.
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<div class="col-12"><hr /></div>
<div class="col align-self-center">
Now is when it gets interesting …
<br /><br /><u>
Row 2</u>: <b>Skip the first stitch</b>.<br />
<br />
<div class="sgnarrator">
<b class="text-danger">Important</b>: Always skip the first stitch. And do no start with a chain. This is true for Every row. This beginning and how you end the row is what gives the strap a lovely clean, straight edge.</div>
<br /><br />
Work into the back loop of the 2nd stitch AND into the corresponding loop of the row below. Pull yarn through and complete a normal sc stitch. <span class="sn">(I called this the “Strap sc stitch”.)</span>
<br /><br />
Work all the way to end => 5 stitches.
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</div>
<div class="col align-self-center">
We will need one more sc to make up to a total of 6 stitches. This we will do right at the the very tip of the row.
<br /><br />
Put hook through the loop at the very tip of the row. <br />
Pull yarn through and work another sc ==> total of 6sc for the row. (There should be same number of stitches every row.)
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<div class="col-12"><hr />
<br /><br />
Work every row as R2 viz. skip the first stitch. sc into back loop and corresponding loop from previous row, pull yarn through and complete a sc. Work like this all the way along row => 5 sc
<br /><br />
<u>Tip</u>: you can guide yourself by seeing the knit-like “V” that you will be working through.
<br /><br />
Note: it is this stitch – working a sc through back loop and corresponding prev. row loop that creates this thick, strong fabric suitable for bag straps and bands, belts, etc.
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<div class="col-12 align-self-center">
But wait! We still have only 5 stitches along this row. Once again (and for every row henceforth), we will make up the 6th stitch at the very tip of the row.
<br /><br />
Put hook through the TWO END loops. Pull yarn through and complete a sc.
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I have provided 2 images below, viewed from different angles, to explain this
</div>
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<div class="col-12"><hr />
<br /><br />
The following 2 photos show you what the row looks like before turning. Because you only work into the back loop only (BLO) on each row, the untouched front loops are left to be picked up in the next row.
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</div>
</div>
<br><br>
Carrying on working row 3 till you have your desired length of crochet strap.
<br><br><hr>
<u>Note</u>: when I was writing up this article, I did finally come across an article on how to make a non-stretchy crocheted strap on the wonderful Lilla Björn website. This can be found in the reference below. You may want to give that a try tho' I really like mine.
<br><br>
Note also that there may be this crochet stitch/method out there and it has a proper name, but I have not come across it so I am simply calling this stitch "Strap Single Crochet Stitch". But if you have come across this exactly stitch before and/or know its proper name, please do leave me a comment in the comments box below. Thanks!
<br><br>
<div class="summary"><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Addendum</span>: (Nov 2017)
Look at <mark><a href="http://www.clearlyhelena.com/strap-single-crochet-round/">Thermal Stitch in the Round</a></mark> to check out how to use this stitch but working in round, rather than to and fro, as seen here.</div>
<br><br>
<div class="sgnarrator">
<u>Addendum</u>: (May 2018)<br>
<h5>Double Crochet Thermal Stitch</h5>
There is also a <em><strong>double-crochet</strong></em> Thermal Stitch.
You can view the video tutorial (by <i>The Yarnist</i> on YouTube)<br><br>
<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9LocSQkxbUg?rel=0" width="560"></iframe>
</div>
<hr />
<h3>References</h3>
<ul>
<li>lillabjorncrochet.com: <a href="http://www.lillabjorncrochet.com/2015/01/how-to-make-crocheted-strap-for-bag.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Crocheted Strap for Bag</a></li>
</ul>
<hr />
<br><br>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-60537852962682880762016-05-30T22:29:00.375+10:002024-01-18T16:45:58.905+11:00"Wild Contessa Necklace" - mix media <p>"Wild Contessa" is the name of this mix media necklace. Because it is kinna wild! Fit for a wild contessa!</p>
<figure>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwEI5-6jDUwDKBNd-8UiDroWpLlwq5Djo1X0-nipqcVe2nRgz-VUO_qvcmh-v7hrA6IayLErHZXVunMQP1QrGrJoNr-_5FSW2b9g4yCzeLWDuzbv95BNgsff43-aiBTLGDC2089m8ZP58uKE5HrobRDVWLUAL_e6B5Gn4UM4kCXlCQ9BtckJqp8Nydvgtu/s1000/wild%20contessa%20necklace%20ch0308-000aa.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="874" data-original-width="1000" height="559" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwEI5-6jDUwDKBNd-8UiDroWpLlwq5Djo1X0-nipqcVe2nRgz-VUO_qvcmh-v7hrA6IayLErHZXVunMQP1QrGrJoNr-_5FSW2b9g4yCzeLWDuzbv95BNgsff43-aiBTLGDC2089m8ZP58uKE5HrobRDVWLUAL_e6B5Gn4UM4kCXlCQ9BtckJqp8Nydvgtu/w640-h559/wild%20contessa%20necklace%20ch0308-000aa.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">WILD CONTESSA – MIX MEDIA NECKLACE – CH0308 (SOLD)</figcaption></figure>
<p><br></p>
<p>A detailed pictorial and explanation of the process follows.</p>
<p><br></p><hr><a name='more'></a>
<p>This full featured piece of distinctive mix media jewelry brings together the glamour of solid sterling silver and the enviable glory of many of Swarovski’s crystal components. It marries recycled materials and a variety of gemstones in different sizes and shapes. It glories in the joyous boldness of colors, the vintage and common place elements – reflective of the pursuit of our own distinctive individuality and fire.</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8P0LdxRCJV2zQkRrH8D18m1XnVlgUIUJZWGE41PBZwfh9pxOED3Z0hJCSS1vQqSLaK3-4yimxPUQ2KQqsHl0oJspgfXM-HYq0fy3UUPT1SR7N1kOBUDCCqfo-hMPaz3K0nly9talitfH7yjkf6ApcPw06cB0AVqVRUVV0f1HFQD2fgiNVJNyQ38pLH-gk/s1138/wild%20contessa%20necklace%20ch0308-000b.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="600" data-original-height="1138" data-original-width="955" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8P0LdxRCJV2zQkRrH8D18m1XnVlgUIUJZWGE41PBZwfh9pxOED3Z0hJCSS1vQqSLaK3-4yimxPUQ2KQqsHl0oJspgfXM-HYq0fy3UUPT1SR7N1kOBUDCCqfo-hMPaz3K0nly9talitfH7yjkf6ApcPw06cB0AVqVRUVV0f1HFQD2fgiNVJNyQ38pLH-gk/s600/wild%20contessa%20necklace%20ch0308-000b.jpg"/></a></div>
<p><br></p>
<ul>
<li>Swarovski (Rivoli Button, Drop Channels, Headpins, Rivoli Stone, Gemcolor Pearls, XILION beads, Rose Montees,)</li>
<li>Sterling Silver (chains, findings)</li>
<li>Gemstones (Quartz, Pink Opal, Turquoise, Red Adventurine, Pink Quartz)</li>
<li>Akoya Pearls</li>
<li>Cateye beads</li>
<li>Buttons (wooden, synthetic)</li>
<li>Vintage Cabochons</li>
<li>Wooden Beads (metallic finish, natural)</li>
<li>Bone Beads - hand carved</li>
<li>Treated Fabric Backing, BeadSmith FlexRite (49 strand), Miyuki Delicas and Japanese seed beads</li>
</ul>
<p><br></p>
<p>Status: Sold <small><i>(ad-js-450: Actually this was never sold; someone scammed this off me. I should have known better and been less trusting.)</i></small></p>
<p><br></p><hr>
<h3>Wild Contessa necklace – DIY mix media</h3>
<p>This was a very long process. I will give as much working construction details as possible. However in the later stages, as the morphing of the piece started to take on more and more a life of its own, I am afraid that the notes became briefer as I got caught up in the process.<br><br></p>
<h5>Start with an idea..</h5>
<p>This piece goes through much changing and morphing. That is the life of the piece. Nonetheless, it helps a lot of have some preliminary idea that is not just in the mind. It is useful to have something more concrete to refer to.
</p>
<p><br></p>
<p>In this instance, I laid out the possible designs and variations as they evolved. This allowed me to refer to them as I progressed. Note that the initial layouts as per below were only meant as a guide (and impetus to start) rather than what the final outcome might look like.</p>
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<p>(At the time of writing this (where the project was still in the process of becoming), I had no idea myself how the final piece would look.)</p>
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<p>As you can see, the beginnings may not always be so pretty!</p>
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<p><br></p><hr>
<h5>Central Focal Element of the Jewellery</h5>
<p>The central focal element would be the logical place to start. Remember to stay relaxed and let the piece “decide” what the next elements will be. As each element gets completed, they may affect your initial ideas.</p>
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<p><br></p>
<p>Of course I didn’t have a final fully detailed image in mind when I started. But as you read along, I hope will you get an idea of how a piece will decide its own final outcome.</p>
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For the central focal element, I used a large wooden button. This was to have a beaded bezel so I prepared the base with stiff beading foundation (similar to Lacy’s Stiff Stuff).
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Draw the outline.
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On the beading foundation stiffener, color around the outline in the main color of the bead that will be used for the bead bezel. Remember to color beyond the outline (where the final row around the bezel will be made).
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The reason I color this in is because it will provide a better blend for the beading – eliminating the unsightly whites that sometimes show through no matter how carefully you bead or how small the beads you use.
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Then glue the button onto the prepared bead foundation stiffener. From hereonin, I will just call the bead foundation stiffener as stiff stuff for convenience.
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Note that what I am doing with the button here is normally what you would do when preparing to bead bezel around a cabochon.
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Leave this aside for a little while to allow the glue to dry.
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<u>Tip</u>: do not glue right to the edge of the button (or cabochon, as the case may be). You do not want your beading needle to get all tacky when you bead bezeling.
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Note that while I have trimmed the stiff stuff after completing the bead bezel, I left an edge. This will be needed for the final row which also will join the appropriate backing to the element.
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DO NOT DO THE FINAL EDGING ROW YET.
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I have not done the final beading for the edge right yet because I still have to decide where I will bead-integrate the requisite jump rings which I will need to join element to element.
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Next, move on to the upper layer of the central element. This is how it will look like when done…
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To create the upper layer (on top of the wooden button), I used a Swarovski round Sew-on Stone (clear crystal).
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Prepare the Swarovski Sew-on Stone the same way as above with stiff stuff foundation.
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I don’t want to bead bezel around as per normal. Rather, I will be working just a row of ladder stitches around the edge. First glue the stone onto the stiff stuff (avoid edges). And in this case, the stone can be sewn on as well – so it is extra secure. Trim around leaving edge enough for the ladder stitch edging.
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Do the ladder edge stitching with seed beads. Then “top” that off with Swarovski 3mm XILION beads so that they “stand up”.
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Once that is done, it can be sewn-attached to the bottom layer (wooden button). I added a dollop of E6000 glue right in the center just for added firmness.
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For the backing of my beaded pieces, I love using colorful recycled fabric. I treat them with Lamifix which gives it a sealed finish. This pic here shows a scrap of (swimsuit) recycled new fabric scrap that has had this treatment.
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Glue that as backing; avoid glue around egdes where you will be sewing. Cut backing to same size as the stiff stuff. Then it will be ready for the ladder stitch edging.
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But wait just one moment …..
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<h5>Lay out the Connectors</h5>
Now this is not always possible but wherever it is, it is a good idea to figure out where the connectors you will need are going to be. I am using (closed) Sterling Silver jump rings for connectors around the central element. And based on the initial layout drawings, I have some pretty good idea where I will be needing the connectors.
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If you can figure out where the jump rings need to be, you can <u>work them into</u> the piece as you do the final ladder stitch edging around the element. It will give the piece a much more finished, professional look and make the requisite connections later much easier.
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This photo shows what it looks like with some of the connectors / jump rings beaded around the edge.
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<span class="text-danger">Important:</span> as you work the bead edging, you are capturing the jump rings between the beads and the [stiff stuff plus the treated fabric backing].
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<u>Tip</u>: use CLOSED jump rings rather than open ones. That way, you can be sure that the thread will not disastrously “escape” the rings at some later stage.
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<h5>Side Elements for Mix Media Jewelry</h5>
Using draft layout drawing, we can start with some of the side elements. Here I am using vintage (from 1950’s – 1960’s) plastic cabs. The process is pretty much the same as for bead bezeling as per above.
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These vintage cabs are interesting. They are light and hollow. Better yet, they have 2 side holes which means you can sew the cabs directly onto the prepared stiff stuff before you begin bead bezeling.
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When the bead bezel is complete, trim off the stiff stuff – leaving an excess edge for the ladder stitch edging.
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Because these vintage cabs are hollow, I will need an additional thicker backing. For this I am using a layer foam <small class="text-black-50">(from recycling warehouse Reverse Garbage, NSW, Australia)</small>.
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Trace around the edges of the cut stiff stuff. Then when you cut the foam layer, cut SMALLER than your drawn outline. This is because you do not want to have to sew through this. Rather it is meant as a firmer backing for the vintage cabs.
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Glue the cut foam pieces to the back of the beaded bezel vintage cabs.
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Do the same for the treated (Lamifix) fabric backing. However, trace and cut to exact size as the stiff stuff. You will be sewing through the stiff stuff and this fabric backing when you do the ladder stitch edging.<br><br>
<span class="text-secondary"><u>FYI</u>: When you seal fabric with the iron-on Lamifix, you can either have the Lamifix on the right side or the wrong side of the fabric – depending on whether you want a sealed (plastic-like) finish on the outside or not.Unless there is a specific reason why you might want a fabric feel to your backing, I found that I actually prefer the plastic-like finish on the outside. It looks and feels more professional when I finish.</span>
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As with the central element, figure out the placement of the needed jump rings before doing the ladder stitch edging
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<h5>Revise the Layout Again and Again</h5>
One of the core, recurring aspects of creating ad-hoc mix media jewelry is that it is virtually imperative to play, test, and revise the possible layout again and again. It is like an ongoing conversation with the emerging artwork.
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Each layout may not, probably will not be the final version. But each variation gives your piece a chance to “talk” to you – in terms of whether the colors and shapes are working and it will whisper suggestions to you as to what, where, and how the next steps will proceed.
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You can see from this photo that, when compared with my initial draft layouts, variations are already emerging.
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For now, it “tells” me the next step is to do those Swarovski Rivolis (14mm, Fuchsia).
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After I had made 2 beaded bezel with the Fuchsia Rivolis, it felt like I should have one with Swarovski Vitrail Light. After which, yet another variation emerged.
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The beaded bezel Swarovski Fuchsia rivolis have to be set aside for the time being. Now it looks as if I will be using the Vitrail Light together with 2 pink quartz gemstones to make another combined element.
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Your piece will “converse” with you via variations. Again & Again.
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<p>Play around with possible variations till you think you have the one that you are happy with (for now) .. and then you can move on.
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<h3>Making the Compound Element</h3>
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Draw the outline for the compound element on the prepared stiff stuff. Sew down the beaded Swarovski Vitrail Light rivoli (using the edging beads). Glue down the side quartz gemstones and bead bezel around.
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Finish off the beading for the compound element. Trim off excess stiff stuff. Remember to leave enough edging for the final ladder stitch edging.
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Since I want this compound element to have more body and firmness, I will be using a foam layer as part of its backing.
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Trace around the trimmed stiff stuff. This foam backing is to be SMALLER so that I will not be sewing into it.
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<u>Tip</u>: To make it much easier when cutting, draw another inner outline.
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Cut along the inner lines.
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You can see from this photo that the foam backing is slightly smaller than the stiff stuff. Glue the foam backing onto the stiff stuff.
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<h3>Optional: for Increased Firmness</h3>
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I felt that I would like this compound element to be much firmer and stronger. So using a (recycled) name badge which was made of strong stiff plastic, I cut out a piece to the size of the foam backing and glued that on as well.
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<u>Tip</u>: I smoothed the edges of the stiff plastic with my Dremel.
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Then as per normal, prepare the (Lamifix) treated fabric for the final backing. Remember that this is to be the same size as the stiff stuff as we will be ladder stitch bead edging through them both.
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<p><br></p><hr>
<h3>The Rest of this Mix Media Necklace Process</h3>
<p>I have documented quite a lot of this long (multiple day) process. Now it peters off – the documenting, not the process. As a matter of fact, the “conversation” between you and your creation will increase at this stage as you try to pull the elements all together. You will find yourself testing & re-testing .. & re-testing again all the permutations that can go into the piece. This below shows but one of those myriad combinations that transpired before the final form emerged.</p>
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<p>I have used BeadSmith Flex-Rite (49 Stran, Bronze & Gold) for the stringing.
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<u>Note</u>: The BeadSmith Flex-Rite is very good for this. It is thin and yet strong enough. Best of all, it is flexible with no kinks.</p>
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<h3>Wild Contessa Necklace & Parts – more photos</h3>
<p>I don’t have more pics to show you in the repetitive permutations (try, take out, try, take out) … so here are photos of the finished mix media jewelry piece as well as finished component parts.
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The chain is a re-purposed new, solid Sterling Silver bracelet chain in Byzantine weave.</p>
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Below is an ad hoc arrangement of components and colors. Surrounded by Swarovski Gemcolor Pearls (4mm) with Neon Pink pearls (Swarovski). The connectors have done their part, making the joining easier and more integrated.
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The vintage cabs look perfect (ok, yes, I love them!) They are connected to the compound element via 4mm cat eye beads. And via Sterling Silver rings to the central round (wooden button) component.
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This photo shows a plethora of mixed components.
The bead cap – is a rectangular alloy (non-iron) embossed bead cap. I have further polished it with Gilders Paste (Silver) for a protective layering and to prevent tarnishing.
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There are tear drop pale pink opals, colorful small buttons (orange & green), colourful Swarovski pearls, hemeatite beads, Adventurine beads, real turquoise beads, metallized rectangular beads (further protected with a layer of Dorland Wax Medium).
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I am including this pic coz I am so pleased (& surpised) with it. This was a fortuitous combination. It is made of 2 glass (turquoise) beads (4mm) and a Rhodium Plated Pandora-style slider bead. They look perfect together as if they were just one element. I love it when things come together and look better than I had expected 😀
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The rest of the chain (to the back) is made of oval wooden beads (dark brown and light) plus 6mm hand-carved bone beads.
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This shows the back of the piece. Each fabric piece has been sealed and treated. Though it is not clear from this photo, there is a sealed shinny finish to them.
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<p>I hope you have enjoyed this sojourn into the play of mix media with me. Now I will trundel off and contemplate making a matching set of <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2016/05/wild-contessa-earrings-mix-media.html">Wild Contessa earrings</a> for this piece or go with my inner voices that are insistently whispering new designs and ideas to try out.</p>
<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GCPX2gdbgW8S1X5B9ZTm9a6jl2pENWeDTyeX-bBmOY9TvmOkQj9BJCz1XYE2BAInLYje-HO5tolI9SBerHLCWbDgngbvN03eP1Z5sYM7MhToIRpcmBwph9DulFvCUy1Pjm8C2vBUU3obCbNuubhMRXgOhzdL3AE8ZhzRo5APGrMwAGLOp-0gDRGvHXim/s1000/wild%20contessa%20necklace%20ch0308-000o.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GCPX2gdbgW8S1X5B9ZTm9a6jl2pENWeDTyeX-bBmOY9TvmOkQj9BJCz1XYE2BAInLYje-HO5tolI9SBerHLCWbDgngbvN03eP1Z5sYM7MhToIRpcmBwph9DulFvCUy1Pjm8C2vBUU3obCbNuubhMRXgOhzdL3AE8ZhzRo5APGrMwAGLOp-0gDRGvHXim/s600/wild%20contessa%20necklace%20ch0308-000o.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Wild Contessa - Mix Media Necklace (CH0308 - gone)</figcaption></figure>
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<p><br></p>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-37622212637052812412016-05-30T15:18:00.002+10:002024-01-18T16:42:08.180+11:00"Wild Contessa Earrings" - mix media<p>"Wild Contessa Earrings" is truly a coming together of components reflective of the many passionate and exuberant aspects of ourselves.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt8eW2gx2oHH2hj01tRZj-1TsJjSY1Z37KC-BsFHh8AgH0fwpILSBVjoy74tZ-GhJOovm4IqdFIqd8LbaorHi87UGoQqjzbCK1JR5JbPkUpYZANsBmkNliMgwwPmBiBNUAQ791YREndhZNelRwfTrQjrgHe8KiymnHPqbx_0-VvKUj9nDa3cAD5e8ai7nH/s1000/wild%20contessa%20earrings%20ch0309-000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt8eW2gx2oHH2hj01tRZj-1TsJjSY1Z37KC-BsFHh8AgH0fwpILSBVjoy74tZ-GhJOovm4IqdFIqd8LbaorHi87UGoQqjzbCK1JR5JbPkUpYZANsBmkNliMgwwPmBiBNUAQ791YREndhZNelRwfTrQjrgHe8KiymnHPqbx_0-VvKUj9nDa3cAD5e8ai7nH/s600/wild%20contessa%20earrings%20ch0309-000.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcapion text-center">"Wild Contessa Earrings (CH0309)</figcaption></figure>
<p><br></p>hr><a name='more'></a>
<p>This full featured piece of distinctive mix media brings together the glamour of solid sterling silver and the enviable glory of many of Swarovski’s crystal components. It glories in the joyous boldness of colors, the vintage and common place elements.
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<h5>Materials</h5>
<ul>
<li>Swarovski Elements (pearls, 1 and 2 hole channels, chaton montees, bicone XILION beads, round facet crystals #5000)</li>
<li>buttons - wood, plastic</li>
<li>Akoya Pearls</li>
<li>Sterling Silver decorated earring wire</li>
</ul>
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<p class="text-secondary"><small>Status: tno</small></p>
<p><br></p><hr>
<p>This Wild Contess Earrings was created to match the <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2016/05/wild-contessa-necklace-mix-media.html">Wild Contessa Necklace</a>. Both made in the same style with just as wild and eclectic a mix of effusion, enthusiasm, and love.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjywmWT6KwU2LkWx9WmtzYqwFz94WXKds1SE4gN96tvrxoVvLVNNTgSrhc1KXITenD2Bto6LIk_kR96PmXBbgz9KkPzaped8YkJk2DYBxPcxZrNKUTcNC6WHaoF3Qvk1PzP5xpmlYTJjQtdzQYqx3Hs0ZFl3tsoGBXmchKHpOkxuHeDlfTKHdJFs5LQ1Mel/s1333/wild%20contessa%20earrings%20ch0309-002.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="600" data-original-height="1333" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjywmWT6KwU2LkWx9WmtzYqwFz94WXKds1SE4gN96tvrxoVvLVNNTgSrhc1KXITenD2Bto6LIk_kR96PmXBbgz9KkPzaped8YkJk2DYBxPcxZrNKUTcNC6WHaoF3Qvk1PzP5xpmlYTJjQtdzQYqx3Hs0ZFl3tsoGBXmchKHpOkxuHeDlfTKHdJFs5LQ1Mel/s600/wild%20contessa%20earrings%20ch0309-002.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">The Wild Contessa set, Necklace & Earrings (CH0308, CH0309)</figcaption></figure>
<p><br></p><hr>
<h3>Wild Contessa Mix Media Earrings - DIY Notes</h3>
<p>Since I have already talked quite at length about the methods, tips, and techniques I employed in “<a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2016/05/wild-contessa-necklace-mix-media.html">The Wild Contessa Necklace</a>“, (hopefully) here I will be more brief. But I still hope to provide enough tips and reminders for anyone who is interested.
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<p>It is always easier to figure out what is being described if you can get a look at the final result. So to that end, here is the final result.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD63ZR_b10chLBcNoq6FTqiLvlshSOAFAdDtDAgpGSCcqMQgTdwZfpOlvojAeIKAlHXWPb8HDh4TsRjCQB2jIK-MI-hdOGALUmkFIvs75PNBjxOd3nnq1WeUQ29ROfB1PxlKRKIhadCSg9JflIieMC3VmWY_hC7WsTira4LD1r-CIQp_x4uYFrPXzxTitD/s1090/wild%20contessa%20earrings%20ch0309-003.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="600" data-original-height="1090" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD63ZR_b10chLBcNoq6FTqiLvlshSOAFAdDtDAgpGSCcqMQgTdwZfpOlvojAeIKAlHXWPb8HDh4TsRjCQB2jIK-MI-hdOGALUmkFIvs75PNBjxOd3nnq1WeUQ29ROfB1PxlKRKIhadCSg9JflIieMC3VmWY_hC7WsTira4LD1r-CIQp_x4uYFrPXzxTitD/s600/wild%20contessa%20earrings%20ch0309-003.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcapion text-center">"Wild Contessa Earrings (CH0309)</figcaption></figure>
<p><br></p><hr>
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Here is what I started with, trying to throw a few components together to get an idea of where this might go and hoping it will spark off some juices.
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Just like in the DIY for the Wild Contessa Necklace, do the smaller elements first if your pieces are going to be layered – bead bezel the smaller button, add embelishment (Swarovski chaton montee, gun metal finish). Fix to the bottom larger button and complete that with beading.
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<u>TIP</u>: Color the backing stiff stuff to create a better blended background for the beaded ladder edging.
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<u>TIP</u>: Whenever possible, remember to integrate (i.e. bead in) the connectors that you might want on your piece.
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Ooops, I forgot to color prepare the backing here for the vintage cab. Cie la vie!
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Here, I have done this a bit differently than in the “Wild Contessa Necklace“.<br><br>
First, I sewed the cab to the backing, taking advantage of the holes in the cab. So no gluing necessary. And instead of back-stitching the beads around the cab (which is the normal way to begin bead bezeling), I have strung enough beads and used the 4 holes in the cab as means of anchoring the foundation beads to the cab.
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String the needed Swarovski pearls (4mm) the same way and anchor to the bottom holes of the cab as well.
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Draw outline on backing, making sure you leave enough of a seam to facilitate the beading edge later. Then cut along your outline.
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Use the cut piece as a template for the other pieces you need.
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Because this cab is hollow, it looks and feels much better to have a more solid and firmer backing. To achieve this, I sandwich a piece of strong foam between the cab and the final (fabric) backing.
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<u>TIP</u>: Because you do not want to be sewing through the foam, cut it a bit smaller (as shown by the inner drawn outline).
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<u>TIP</u>: I chose to use use fabric backing for my cabs. These scraps of fabric and treated with Lamifix which gives it a water-proof laminated look.
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Here is a quick look at the back of the earrings. It is as colorful and unique as the front is!
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The fabric backing is cut to the same size as the cut cab-with-stiff-stuff (i.e. template). The final bead edging will join the stiff stuff to the fabric backing.
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<u>TIP</u>: I added a string of tiny seed beads (15/0) beneath the Swarovski pearls so that the white stiff stuff does not show through between the larger 4mm pearls. Secure or back-stitch this tiny beads down. Couch the pearls down on top of it.
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<u>TIP</u>: remember to “intergrate” the connectors while doing the final bead edging.
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Join the pieces together when all the elements are done.
<br><br>
<u>TIP</u><br><br>
<b class="text-danger">Very important</b> – whenever you are attaching flatish elements and there is a potential of it twisting/turning when worn (as here) … the point of connection should be “firm”. For instance, here this is achieved by having multiple attachments linking the top to the bottom element
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Here you can see how the connection between the top and the bottom is not just a one-to-one link. The multiple “connections” provide a firmer base so that when worn, the bottom element will not swing around and show its back. The connection kind of forms a triangle with a Swarovski montee topping.
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<p><br></p><hr>
<h3>Wild Contessa Earrings: photos</h3>
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<p>So that’s how to make the mix media Wild Contessa Earrings. I hope you enjoyed your little stay with me!
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<p><br></p>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-53863111238088422122016-05-29T16:55:00.174+10:002024-01-17T17:55:26.929+11:00Unconventional Company Necklace – mix media<p>Unconventional Company necklace is a bold declaration for the person who knows the beauty and harmony of seemingly disparate elements coming together in a flattering symmetry.</p>
<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbb1JQxrBwBwKqN_pL9ivkA7HbDj1528_UhT_YJuBvCbKIKDiVpqYZd0ojSXZJaxyaZtVDiZ8e0bAPvHE4ovsLfuUgSMNpSsloBoIgBuzqtTiY9dh2xV-kbaz_P9gdr1LONGeZm4e40dkxoxxJDqTeKNji5QaoxTlEsW4BcLl7UdCMv5zOqHqEVt9WOwXB/s800/unconventional%20company%20necklace%20ch0300-000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="601" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbb1JQxrBwBwKqN_pL9ivkA7HbDj1528_UhT_YJuBvCbKIKDiVpqYZd0ojSXZJaxyaZtVDiZ8e0bAPvHE4ovsLfuUgSMNpSsloBoIgBuzqtTiY9dh2xV-kbaz_P9gdr1LONGeZm4e40dkxoxxJDqTeKNji5QaoxTlEsW4BcLl7UdCMv5zOqHqEVt9WOwXB/s600/unconventional%20company%20necklace%20ch0300-000.jpg" width="600" /></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">UNCONVENTIONAL COMPANY MIX MEDIA NECKLACE – (CH0300-<small>SOLD</small>)</figcaption></figure>
<p><br /></p><hr /><a name='more'></a>
<p>"Unconventional Company Necklace" – free form mix media necklace from some unconventional elements. Gemstones (Moonstone, Black Onyx, hematite) are thrown together with handmade fabric cabochons, vintage plastic and glass elements.</p>
<p><br /></p>
<div class="sgnarrator">Unconventional Company Necklace a declaration of one’s own individual and complex inner aspects and an embracing of the differences and uniqueness in our lives.
</div>
<p><br /></p>
<p>This mix media necklace is made to celebrate our harmonious dissimilar parts. Cherished gemstones swimming in the subtly bold opalescent intrique of Moonstone and the dark, mysterious depths of Black Onyx link arms with handmade and vintage components</p>
<p><br /></p>
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<p><u>Approximate length</u>: 45.7cm 18 inch</p>
<p><u>Materials</u>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Handmade Fabric Square Cabochon</li>
<li>Swarovski White Crystal Embedded Rings</li>
<li>Gemstones: Moonstone, Black Onyx</li>
<li>Seed Beads, Glass beads</li>
<li>Hematite gemstone beads</li>
<li>Handmade chains</li>
<li>Vintage (1960s) sew-on red square plastic stones</li>
</ul>
<p><br></p>
<p><small style="color:#999999;">Status: Sold</small></p>
<p><br></p>
<p><br></p><hr>
<h3>DIY Notes on Making Unconventional Company Necklace</h3>
<div class="float-end"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvq4hNyc6XFENu6ITXuaz6MEjj0yQvjoXEbv9CMd_bTcYDtegBjxC42Cgm39VuxcQ9lUeGw3a6KYoYtLa3xoR8AJAzHcdwss5eSDUuSLE5tLEy0HxmM_kOxYf5hy3VLmHKre7xsU6lJ3JEkmvF5gPeK-dhP2FX9TwvEe_UFrEt5YN3mWLCG2cdax3bAm8h/s841/unconventional%20company%20necklace%20ch0300-004.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="841" data-original-width="740" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvq4hNyc6XFENu6ITXuaz6MEjj0yQvjoXEbv9CMd_bTcYDtegBjxC42Cgm39VuxcQ9lUeGw3a6KYoYtLa3xoR8AJAzHcdwss5eSDUuSLE5tLEy0HxmM_kOxYf5hy3VLmHKre7xsU6lJ3JEkmvF5gPeK-dhP2FX9TwvEe_UFrEt5YN3mWLCG2cdax3bAm8h/s320/unconventional%20company%20necklace%20ch0300-004.jpg"/></a></div>
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<div class="float-start"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLLcEOmAta1WLxIISbr39dM1b8QyrORu2IpsTzN7SSdOi0fgZv6cBI7NKQdc6bhb5HjgsDTuG9kmIlbCjWDDfM3wRP44SUFdYQBikWkj2oXpp_F0hhJ9VWTXT1a4HzFmeqbItABYOh3EW0HrX8kfkZAhhrMDPEFvAFu1tp9OETtaGhqQ-28e-pviyvUow/s870/unconventional%20company%20necklace%20ch0300-006.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="320" data-original-height="711" data-original-width="870" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLLcEOmAta1WLxIISbr39dM1b8QyrORu2IpsTzN7SSdOi0fgZv6cBI7NKQdc6bhb5HjgsDTuG9kmIlbCjWDDfM3wRP44SUFdYQBikWkj2oXpp_F0hhJ9VWTXT1a4HzFmeqbItABYOh3EW0HrX8kfkZAhhrMDPEFvAFu1tp9OETtaGhqQ-28e-pviyvUow/s320/unconventional%20company%20necklace%20ch0300-006.jpg"/></a></div>
<p><br></p>
<p>Every effort was made to ensure that the back is as comfortable as possible.</p>
<p><br></p>
<p>Oval gemstones – in the contrasting opalescent Moonstone and the mysterious Black Onyx, are carefully bead bezelled and linked together. Only closed jump rings are used so that there is no chance of the rings opening up during wear.</p>
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEhbJx66JDehhnWsPL6NhVUilvbeorx3Qs5YadIdvoDZ0a2eIHjGwfVN9Dw9a6aJGv_73yAvtmiFtSxN5JGIAPXKqr2HTqDKF_HvZDYlE5PjlZoqAXTBOjcKTfe9GAaN2X98pZ2k4kPo48F7-q5bUtkeYnLTyfAWHIA1WNhb45R5mdlQ76aDMxDDRd1n53/s800/unconventional%20company%20necklace%20ch0300-007.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEhbJx66JDehhnWsPL6NhVUilvbeorx3Qs5YadIdvoDZ0a2eIHjGwfVN9Dw9a6aJGv_73yAvtmiFtSxN5JGIAPXKqr2HTqDKF_HvZDYlE5PjlZoqAXTBOjcKTfe9GAaN2X98pZ2k4kPo48F7-q5bUtkeYnLTyfAWHIA1WNhb45R5mdlQ76aDMxDDRd1n53/s600/unconventional%20company%20necklace%20ch0300-007.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Beaded Bezel Gemstones</figcaption></figure>
<p><br></p>
<p class="text-danger">Note: The beaded loops on the gemstones must be created and linked to closed jump rings in one go, viz. the jump ring is <u>Not</u> inserted after the beaded bezel and loops are done.</p>
<p><br></p>
<p>Matching (stretchy) fabric is used to create the square cabochons. This must be sewed neatly to completely and invisibly seal before beading around it and linking securely to the other components.</p>
<p><br></p>
<p><u>TIP</u>:<br>
It is wisest to sketch out a layout whenever possible so that all the needed integrated linkages can be planned out and added while creating each component.
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To add character and color to the black white coloration, red vintage sew-ons are securely sewed onto the fabric cabochon.
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<p>The back of these buttons have an added button for comfort and strength.</p>
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Dark crimps are used at the junction of the front piece to handmade hematite chains.
This provides both security and strong body.<br><br>
This Unconventional Company necklace is proof that the most disparate of items can come together in harmony when the time is right 🙂<br><br>
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<p>No specific step-by-step is given to create the Mix Media Necklace. It is impossible as the ideas and the how-tos will come together as the piece progresses. However I hope that the plentitude of detailed photos here will trigger delicious possibilities of your own.
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-30886890244212649662016-03-21T16:35:00.070+11:002024-01-24T16:54:08.638+11:00Open Toe Baby Sandals – How to Crochet<br>
Today I will do a short blog post on how to make open toe baby sandals. Keep in mind that the look and feel of them varies greatly with the colour and embellishment choices. So here, I will just cover the basic foundation of the open toe baby sandals.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_8NQulzlcjMQ04jhHNfvhA9t4I_yGSu8-mfA7I3JjHs0gJbFYzvj2htYUYRhlBi2ZM2MNXpYuCiLtpu0Vd0nHv8LSWAK7yxrHlPJ6FvkTiTlk1g1WSUnGLpEPuzGTYWHOkdvsOAMdaJo7QpdmPBn3KeiEcN3LFsUFwJiC2dOKJNmsU4tzQZ2Z-MNaC2eq/s1000/open-toe-baby-sandals-000.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_8NQulzlcjMQ04jhHNfvhA9t4I_yGSu8-mfA7I3JjHs0gJbFYzvj2htYUYRhlBi2ZM2MNXpYuCiLtpu0Vd0nHv8LSWAK7yxrHlPJ6FvkTiTlk1g1WSUnGLpEPuzGTYWHOkdvsOAMdaJo7QpdmPBn3KeiEcN3LFsUFwJiC2dOKJNmsU4tzQZ2Z-MNaC2eq/s600/open-toe-baby-sandals-000.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Open Toe Baby Sandals – How to Crochet</figcaption></figure>
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<h2>How to Make Open Toe Baby Sandals</h2>
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First make 4 soles. 2 upper and 2 lower soles. The open toe baby sandals have double soles.
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For the soles, please refer to <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2024/01/how-to-crochet-soles-for-baby-shoes.html#dcbabysoles">DC Baby Soles for the crochet chart</a>. Note however that here, for the second row, instead of dc (double crochet), I have used sc (single crochet) to get the size I want.
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If the upper and lower soles have different colours (as here), we will first work with the upper soles. In this instance, it is the purple soles.
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We work from the back. Start and make 5dc, picking up around the post of the dc stitches from the soles (i.e. 5fpdc). Leave 15 stitches around the center curve.
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11 chains, then 1fpdc (front post double crochet). Make sure it is slightly off center to accomodate where the toe is going to be.
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<span class="text-danger">Note: when you make the other sole, this will have to be reversed.</span> Viz. if this side is slightly off center towards the left, then the other sole will be slightly off center towards the right.
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11 chains for the other strap. <br>
5fpdc (leaving 15 stitches around center back). <br>
16 chains (strap for back of foot).
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Then 4 more additional chains (for button hole). <br>
Then dc all along till you get to the penultimate dc just before the center post (for toe).
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3dc together for the center.
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dc all the way to the end.
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Neaten and strengthen by using slip stitch along top and around the buttonhole. Cut yarn and finish off.
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Then add your own buttons and embellishments.
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<b>Note:</b>
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When you make the other sole, remember that you need to <b>mirror</b> this side as baby has a left and right foot!!!!
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Once you have done the upper soles, join the upper to the lower soles by slip stitching all around.
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<hr>
<b>Credit:</b>
<br>
The credit for this open toe baby sandals tutorial goes to <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/79516749649373721/" target="_blank" rel="ext">https://www.pinterest.com/pin/79516749649373721/ </a>- a Pinterest pictorial tutorial. I have modified that tutorial and added more details.
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<hr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2531923635419120631.post-27349650273819927912016-03-13T23:13:00.071+11:002024-01-23T23:25:43.671+11:00Sally's Sparkly Crochet Baby Shoes <br>
It is not often I am keen to take custom orders but when Sally asked for sparkly baby shoes, I could not refuse. Because it was Sally and she asked. And because I adore sparklies! Especially Swarovski sparklies.
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<figure><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMl_ycosxnJ7yIVWF113Em3JZeYeCMjPYJ9Bu6XQfx8IW7whr94FbY8j0ut5CyxkEJtcLHOGJXiTUbVruRK6edQ-zFkOSMLHEJXxbU5D0P9qytxrl3O3AeekYf7A_MKQWBhR4QZepmJf8rLev6JGhBIWumYL2Pndd3KahoMPSCDiZ7WKJnxNO1VMu60iZh/s1000/sparkly%20baby%20shoes%20CH0394-008.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMl_ycosxnJ7yIVWF113Em3JZeYeCMjPYJ9Bu6XQfx8IW7whr94FbY8j0ut5CyxkEJtcLHOGJXiTUbVruRK6edQ-zFkOSMLHEJXxbU5D0P9qytxrl3O3AeekYf7A_MKQWBhR4QZepmJf8rLev6JGhBIWumYL2Pndd3KahoMPSCDiZ7WKJnxNO1VMu60iZh/s600/sparkly%20baby%20shoes%20CH0394-008.jpg"/></a><figcaption class="figcaption text-center">Sally's Sparkly Crochet Baby Shoes (CH0394)</figcaption></figure>
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<h5>Size</h5>
Foot-length: 9-9.5cm (Suitable for <strong>baby 0-6 months</strong>)
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<h5>Materials</h5>
<ul>
<li>soft baby yarn of bamboo & cotton</li>
<li>4/0 Clover crochet hook (2.5mm)</li>
<li>Swarovski pearls (3mm)</li>
<li>Swarovski Rose Montee</li>
<li>Swarovski bicone crystals</li>
<li>handwrapped focal dangles with Swarovski Elements</li>
</ul>
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<div class="sn">Status: (30. Sold. JoyBSally)</div>
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<hr />
<h3>Some notes on how to make Sparkly Baby Shoes</h3>
Notes and links here will be very brief.
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For making the soles, please refer to <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2024/01/how-to-crochet-soles-for-baby-shoes.html">How to Crochet Baby Soles with Crochet Chart</a>.
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For the bootie itself, you will find the how-tos in <a href="https://clearlyhelena.blogspot.com/2015/12/crochet-baby-shoes-how-to.html">how to Crochet Baby Shoes</a>.
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<i>Note</i>: The Swarovski bunch of crystal sparkle and pearls are to be made prior to commencement of crochet work, threaded onto the yarn and incorporated into the center of the front of the crochet shoes.
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Hope all this is been helpful to any DIY crafty persons out there! Cheerio!
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com