Mosaic Crochet - How to do Overlay Mosaic Crochet

This tutorial is another way of doing Mosaic Crochet. I am calling this the OVERLAY Mosaic Crochet because this method employs the main characteristics found in Overlay Crochet: namely, working in the BLO (back loop only) and dropping down to pick up the front loop of stitches in lower rows.

Mosaic Crochet - How to do Overlay Mosaic Crochet

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FYI: In Overlay Crochet, we take advantage of the fact that by laying stitches over other previous rows, we can create lovely and intricate textural patterns.

And thanks to a comment by chipnanna (Feedback on CMC Tutorial), let me just state explicitly: this Overlay Mosaic Crochet method does not use the chain-spaces employed in my earlier mosaic crochet tutorial (which I have now named the Chain-Sp Mosaic Crochet {see Mosaic Crochet Overview – the Different Methods, for a fuller explanation}).

I didn’t “create” this method but I am assigning the name, “Overlay Mosaic Crochet (OMC)” as a clear and easy way to refer to this and differentiate from the first method I documented before.

FYI: To save you time and confusion, I am going to repeat some of the preliminary general information I already stated in my original tutorial on How To Mosaic Crochet. But you might prefer the other method, so it is still worth a read.

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How to do Overlay Mosaic Crochet

Let’s use this Barbara Walker’s chart again.

A sample of Barbara Walker's Knitting Mosaic Chart

Foundation Row: R0 (zero)
Even tho it is usually not shown on the chart, we always start off with one foundation row of sc (single crochet).

Tip: you can also do the foundation row with a row of Foundationless Single Crochet or with my favourite: MM Foundation Row/Cast-on.

If the starting square is black, then the foundation row (R0) will be in white.

Here I will be using:
• black square = Dusky Pink yarn
• white square = Pale Pink yarn

Reading Directions

• R1 & all odd rows (RS) – read from right to left (R=>L)
• R2 & all even rows (WS) – read from left to right (L=>R)

(But really, you won’t need to read on even rows. As I will shortly explain..)

A sq-row is a Row of Squares on the graph. And each sq-row is made up of 2 crochet rows (e.g. R1&R2) and means you read/crochet row one from R=>L , then next row from L=>R – in the one colour.

Then for the next sq-row (e.g. R3&R4), you read/crochet the row from R=>L, then the next row from L=>R – in the next colour.

Identifying Which Colour per Sq-Row
The right-most square of each row of squares on the graph, identifies the colour you will be working with.

Tip: I don’t have to say you can substitute the B/W shown with any colours of your choice, right? And that you can change that duo colour combination at any row. I am sure you realise that already, right?

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Reading the Sq-Rows

• In Overlay Mosaic Crochet (OMC), all stitches are worked in BLO (back loop only) unless otherwise stated and unless we are picking up stitches from lower rows.

• When we pick up stitches from lower rows, we always crochet into the Front Loop only.

Let’s start reading the chart. Starting at the bottom-right of the chart.

Black Sq-Row (R1&2):
EXCEPTION! The first Sq-Row is going to be different from other rows. If this is going to be a black sq-row, then crochet the 2 rows in [sc in BLO]. (Yes, work in the back look only for both R1&R2).

R1&2: [sc BLO]

Don’t Worry!
Don’t worry that R1 & R2 looks nothing like the graph right now. The magic is coming …!

From now on:
On a White Row: when you see ..
• White col. sq over Black col. sq (W/B), you will [sc BLO]
• B/B ==> [sc BLO]
• W/W ==> [dc FLO] (front loop only) into corresponding stitch, 2 rows down



On a Black Row: when you see ..
• B/W ==> [sc BLO]
• W/W ==> [sc BLO]
• B/B ==> [dc FLO] (front loop only) into corresponding stitch, 2 rows down

To demonstrate, lets look at the next sq-row up (i.e. R3&4)

White Sq-Row (R3&4):

R3: In a White row on the chart, you will only [dc flo], directly two rows down (i.e. here it will be into R1) when you read W/W.

Otherwise, [sc blo] all other stitches.

R4: Remember at the start of this tutorial, I hinted that you would not even have to refer to the graph on even rows. Here’s why … on every even row, you will just [SC BLO] on every stitch; back to the start where the next colour is ready to be picked up for the next row.

Just follow the instructions as above and you will see the magic of mosaic crochet appear beneath your very fingers! Below, you can see I have finished up to R12 so you can see how it is turning out …

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Notes on General Mosaic Crochet

• In case you haven’t already realised, the reason why each sq-row is made up of 2 rows of crochet, per colour, is so that the colour can go one way and come back again, ready for you to pick up the second colour. This is true for flat crochet (where you go back and forth).
  
  
• In circular crochet, you only need one row per colour. That is because at the end of one row, you are back to where the other colour is waiting for you. This is very convenient for circular crochet and the graphed patterns will turn out more compact.
  
  
• Compact Mosaic Crochet: If you are working in flat crochet, to decrease the height of your Mosaic Crochet and to create a more compact pattern, you [sl.st BLO] in every Even row (rather than [sc blo] as we showed here.
  
  

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